Seb Bouin Opens Hardest Route in China
El Gran Cabrón 5.15b is the latest first ascent for the prolific French climber
Photo by: Riff Solo
Seb Bouin just announced that he made the first ascent of El Gran Cabrón in the Shegeng cave of China’s Guang Xi province. Clocking in at 5.15b (9b), the route is China’s hardest sport climb. The route was originally bolted by David Gambús.
El Gran Cabrón starts with a section of 5.13a/b followed by a V8 boulder problem to a decent kneebar rest. The crux immediately follows – a V11/12 boulder problem with vertical holds and pinches. From there, a devious V8/9 boulder problem is encountered. Bouin fell five times in this spot due to small mistakes. The route ends with with a V7 boulder. Bouin heartbreakingly fell there once as he grabbed for the final jug.
“It’s an incredible experience to find such a project and challenge myself in a setting like this,” said Bouin after his ascent. “China leaves no one indifferent—I feel like this trip is opening my mind in so many ways. The distance, the unfamiliar culture, and this new way of life disorient me as much as they fascinate me. There are plenty of additional doubts that come with adapting, making the adventure all the more exciting.
“I went straight to check out El Gran Cabrón, bolted by David Gambús. I couldn’t make sense of all the moves at first. The climbing here is incredibly complex, with so many methods to figure out. I was surprised by the quality of the rock and the movement style of the route. It’s absolutely beautiful and super fun to climb! The crux sequences involve pinches and really physical moves—I love it!”
With El Gran Cabrón, Bouin kicks off 2025 strong. He had a solid 2024, making the first ascent of Les Rois du Lithium 5.15b in Pic Saint-Loup in April and the FA of Wolf Kingdom 5.15c in November, again in Pic Saint-Loup.
Feature photo by Riff Solo
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