Seb Bouin has reported on social media that he has made the first ascent Les Yeux Plus Gros Que L’antre (Eyes Bigger Than the Cave) 5.15a/b at Russan, France.
The 70-metre route is a 20-year-old project and Bouin said it climbs like Chilam Balam 5.15a/b and Pachamama 5.15a/b.
The climber’s site 8a.nu reported Bouin as saying, “The first roof part is around 20 to 25 metres. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope.
“Then you have a bouldery crux on one finger pocket to reach an other rest. Until here it could be 8c route. Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas and after there is 7A boulder and 7A boulder and 7C+/8A boulder and 7B boulder. All these boulders problems are amazing.”
Bouin went on to say it’s one of the most beautiful routes he’s climbed.
This is the fourth hardest route in France after CRS 5.15b, Eagle 4 5.15b and Akira 5.15b.
Last week, Sachi Amma climbe Soul Mate, the irst 5.15b in Japan. Read more here.
Young U.K. climber William Bosi has climbed his third 5.14d with a send of Malcolm Smith’s Hunger in Anvil. Bosi is hoping to compete in the 2020 Olympics. His previous 5.14ds were Rainshadow and Hubble.
Jonathan Siegrist has made the first repeat of two Joe Kinder’s The Re-Up 5.14d in Cathedral from 2008 and Bone Tomahawk 5.15a in Fynn Cave from 2016.
Full 5.15b List
C.R.S. 5.15b in Mollans, France
Delincuente Natural 5.15b in Rodellar, Spain
Eyes Are Bigger Than The Cave 5.15a/b in Russan, France
Fight Club 5.15b in Canmore, Canada
Fight or Flight 5.15b in Oliana, Spain
First Round First Minute 5.15b in Margalef, Spain
Golpe de Estado 5.15b in Siurana, Spain
Iron Curtain 5.15b in Flatanger, Norway
Jumbo Love 5.15b in Clark Mountain, USA
La Capella 5.15b in Siurana, Spain
La Planta de Shiva 5.15b in Villanueva de Rosario, Spain
Lapsus 5.15b in Andonno, Italy
Mamichula 5.15b in Oliana, Spain
Meiose 5.15b in Charmey, Switzerland
Move Hard 5.15b in Flatanger, Norway
Neanderthal 5.15b in Santa Linya, Spain
One Slap 5.15b in Arco, Italy
Queen Line 5.15b in Arco, Italy
Rainman 5.15b in Malham Cove, United Kingdom
Rob in Ud 5.15b in Alternatívna stena, Slovakia
Soul Mate 5.15b in Gozen Rock, Japan
Stoking the Fire 5.15b in Santa Linya, Spain
Alasha 5.15a/5.15b in Mallorca, Spain
Catxasa (R2) 5.15a/5.15b in Santa Linya, Spain
Es Pontas 5.15a/5.15b in Mallorca, Spain
Marina Superstar 5.15a/5.15b in Domusnovas, Italy
Supernova 5.15a/5.15b in Frankenjura, Germany
Torture Physique Integrale 5.15a/5.15b in Gastlosen, Switzerland
Vicious Circle 5.15a/5.15b in Mišja Peč, Slovenia
Damn, I’m freaking stoked on this one! Bone Tomahawk. All of the roof climbing tricks and big muscle thuggery. Not my best style, and definitely the hardest route I’ve climbed in a while… thank you for the vision and effort @joekinder ! Was so great hanging and shooting with you @tarakerzhner ?! • @arcteryx @lasportivana @maximropes @metoliusclimbing @climbonproducts @theprobar #bonetomahawk