The Second Ascent of Floatin V16 in Japan
Watch Florian Wientjes repeat Ryuchi Murai's esthetic problem in Mitzugaki
In fall 2023, Florian Wientjes made the second ascent of Floatin V16, which was first climbed by Ryuchi Murai in Mitzugaki, Japan. Shortly after Wientjes made the second ascent, Ryohei Kameyama completed the third ascent, read more about it here.
Wientjes said that after he watched videos of the route, he became focused on climbing it. Mellow’s film featuring Murai on the first ascent in 2021 has become one of their most-watched YouTube videos, watch it below. Wintjes repeated Floatin in five sessions, but he trained for four weeks before his trip to Japan specifically for the fingery moves.
“In sessions 1-4 I mainly focused on the first move which is definitely the hardest move,” he told 8a.nu. “I made a little progress every session starting from initiating the bad holds to getting more and more hight to reach the second hold. The second move felt easier and I was able to stick it in my second try. In session 5 I finally stuck the first move and did the second move but fell on the easy top part because I slipped. (The days before it rained a lot and I forgot to clean the top). That was a big bummer, but I knew I could do the move. After 15 min rest I tried it again and was able to link everything together. All in all, I had 19 days in Japan and 9 climbing days in Mizugaki.”
Floatin V16 2nd Ascent
Floatin V16 FA
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