Shauna Coxsey has just climbed her first V13 in a while with Flip Flopera. Known as the most successful competition climber in the U.K., with overall season IFSC Bouldering wins in 2016 and 2017, she retired from comps after climbing in the Tokyo Olympics.
Coxsey, who recently became a new mom to Frankie, has been working her way back up the grades after recovering from a double knee surgery. She’s currently working to climb the 50 most classic Font grade 7s (V6 to V10) in the U.K. for an upcoming YouTube series, but took a break to tick this classic V13. Days before climbing Flip Flopera, she climbed Impropa Opera V12 and Impropa Flip Flopera V12.
Coxsey’s hardest boulder send came in 2014 when she repeated New Base Line V14 at Magic Wood, Switzerland. At the time, she was only the third woman to climb V14. Flip Flopera was first climbed by Dan Varian, and has been repeated by several climbers, including Will Bosi, Jack Palmieri and Molly Thompson-Smith.
In a conversation with Coxsey in 2022, she talked to us about preparing for the Olympics and said, “I knew that to comp climb, you need to do it when you have the motivation for it because it is unforgiving and relentless.” Watch below as she sends Flip Flopera V13 in 2023 and Nuthin But Sunshine in Lower Chaos, Rocky Mountain National Park, in 2013.