Siula Grande’s East Face Gets First Ascent

Siula Grande’s massive east face has been climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain. Their grade-six route is called Le Bruit des Glacons and climbs 1,400 metres up to 5.10+ WI5. The big Peru mountain was first climbed in 1936 and made popular after Joe Simpson and Simon Yates epic that was captured in the book Touching the Void. The duo left basecamp on Aug. 24 and climbed the steep East Pillar up 750 metres of mostly 5.9 and 5.10. They rappelled the back of the pillar 100 metre to the South East Ridge of the peak proper, which they climbed in 750 metres. Full trip report here.