Home > News

Some December 2019 V15 Bouldering News

It's been a big year for V15 and V16 sends, stand by for a full recap on 2019

We’re into the last few weeks of 2019, but climbers are still out there sending hard routes where ever the temps allow for it.

In Brione, European bouldering champion Vadim Timonov climbed a number of hard problems in a day, including a number of V13s and The Kingdom V15 (8C). “What a day,” he said on his 8a.nu scorecard. “I am happy that I have climbed in one session. Don’t know about grade. Maybe my style, but felt not so hard for 8C. Did it just in a couple of hours. It should have been a rest day but the conditions were pretty good and I could not wait. It turned out productively.”

American Drew Ruana reported that he climbed Trieste V15 in Red Rocks, a Paul Robinson line from 2014. Ruana has said that he likely won’t compete at the next Olympic qualification event, despite finishing top 15 at the combined world championships.

Stefano Carnati, who recently climbed Dreamtime V15, has just climbed The Story Of 2 Worlds V15, also in Switzerland. “Did The Dagger a few years ago and briefly tried the sit a couple of times this year. Climbed today after a long session. Possibly easier with all the new betas.”

Vadim Timonov is on fire this fall with two V15s: The Kingdom and Dreamtime. “I spent three sessions. The first was wet but I did all the moves. The second was good, I was so close but heel hook moves were not stable. The third session was good. Second go from the start.”

Alizée Dufraisse, who had climbed a number of 5.14+ routes, recently sent Meadowlark Lemon Stand V13 in Red Rocks. “I am happy because it is a very beautiful boulder. It means for me that I can continue harder and try the sit start (V14), which is definitely the inspiring line.”

View this post on Instagram

It is not always easy to transition from route climbing to bouldering ? I am used to do pretty long boulders, 20/25 moves long, so it is still resistant. I saw the boulder "meadowlark lemon" when I arrived here and got super excited to try it!! Such a beautiful line, orange rock with crimps and arete ? It entered the list of the boulders I want to do in my life !! I tried the stand start, V13, 3 power moves and a tricky slab to finish with ⭐️? it was really hard to figure out the moves. I needed to focus on one thing I always forget but that people around me (@jwebxl and @dave_graham_ ?) made me remember : "always try hard". Yes, it is not just hanging on the holds and climbing slowly, sometimes you need to force yourself to activate to crush the boulder ? I managed the ascent of "Meadowlark lemon stand" today, and I am super motivated to keep trying hard for the sit start ——————————————–Il n'est pas toujours facile de passer des voies au bloc ?? J'ai commencé plus sérieusement à faire des "saisons" de bloc il y a deux ans, mais c'est vrai que je m'orientais plutôt jusqu'à présent sur des bloc longs et résistants ☺️ En arrivant à LasVegas, j'ai regardé pas mal de vidéos des blocs, et j'ai dessuite eu envie d'essayer "meadowlark lemon". C'est un super beau bloc de grès orange avec des arquée et où l'on doit remonter une belle arête ? J'ai décidé d'essayer le départ debout en 8b, 3 mouvements très physiques et une fin en dalle pas évidente!! ? J'ei eu beaucoup de mal à comprendre les mouvements, c'était très intense… Les gens autour de moi m'ont fait une remarque très intéressante (@jwebxl et ? @dave_graham_ ) : "try hard". J'ai compris que c'est primordial de se forcer à s'activer et utiliser ses ressources à 100%, mentales et physiques: en bloc il faut y croire!! En me focalisant sur cette idée a-priori si simple, mais pas toujours facile à mettre en pratique, j'ai pu réaliser la 2nd ascension féminine de "Meadowlark lemon stand", et je suis super motivée pour ajouter les quelques mouvements du départ assis avant la fin du séjour ❤️?? @dave_graham_ @tenayaclimbing @climb_up_officiel @petzl_official @rab.equipment #wearerab

A post shared by alizée dufraisse (@alizee_dufraisse) on

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

The Best Climbing Gear According to Our Editors – March

Every month we're bringing you our favourite gear so you can complete your climbing kit with the latest and best stuff out there