Sonnie Trotter opened the first 5.14 in eastern Canada in August of the year 2000 with his first ascent of Titan at Lion’s Head.
For the past few weeks, he’s spent time back at his old stomping ground and made the second ascent of Atlas 5.14a and managed a send of The Man in Me 5.13d. Atlas was Trotter’s 70th 5.14.
“Today was a perfect day,” wrote Trotter on Instagram. “A cool front swept across Ontario leaving all rock climbers eager to get out and pull down.”
Trotter has established some of Canada’s most difficult routes, including the single pitch routes Cobra Crack 5.14 trad, The Path 5.14 trad, Forever Expired 5.14d and Family Man 5.14b trad.
High off the ground, he’s opened the eight-pitch Prow Wall 5.14, six-pitch Castles in the Sky 5.14, 15-pitch The Shining Uncut 5.14 and six-pitch Blue Jeans Direct 5.14. He also made the first one day free ascent of Logical Progression 5.13a/b, 28 pitches, in Copper Canyon, Mexico with Alex Honnold.
Trotter hinted about possibly going for 100 5.14 sends, which would be another first for a Canadian climber.
In the August/September issue of Gripped magazine, Trotter talked about Titan and said, “It’s the perfect Lion’s Head route, it climbs the whole length of the crag and when you top out, you feel like you’re on top of the world.
“It’s a lot like the other 5.13s in the area, only way harder and better because the climbing goes on forever.”
Congrats on 70 5.14 sends, Sonnie, and good luck on the next 30.
Today was a perfect day. A cool front swept across Ontario leaving all rock climbers eager to get out and pull down. I managed the 2nd ascent of ‘Atlas’ 5.14a as well as ‘The Man in Me’ 5.13d second try. Long, technical and beautiful routes. A super great crew out there today. I first climbed on this wall almost exactly 20 years ago to the date, so being back, seeing the new routes and climbing them is incredible. Atlas marks my 70th 5.14 (I used to be closer to 80, but a half dozen have been downgraded since I did them😜) – I think it would be really cool to ty and do 💯 one day. Awesome Photo By @mike__penney 📸💥📸💥 @sloperclimbing 👊