Sonnie Trotter has linked the hardest pitches on The Shining on the east face of Mount Louis into 5.14a.
The Shining (Uncut) on the Diamond Face is 13 pitches and tops out at 2,682 metres. Back in 2011, Trotter recruited Tommy Caldwell to help build the big line from the ground up.
“It took a few days but we topped it out in July with Calwell leading the crux pitch at 5.13+,” said Trotter. “But somehow it always stuck with me that maybe it could be climbed without any of the hanging belays of the first three pitches.”
It took Trotter three days this year to link the full 80-metre crux pitch. His partner was young gun comp climber Dexter Bateman.
The Shining is one of three big 5.14s by Trotter in the Bow Valley, the others are the six-pitch Castles in the Sky 5.14a on Castle Mountain and the eight-pitch Blue Jeans Direct 5.14a on Yamnuska.
Another big day on the side of a limestone mountain – this time with local young gun @dexterbateman who did a smash up job following the orange rope to the tippy top. The future of climbing is bright with young men and women like Dexter in our community. Passionate, keen and hilarious. Thank you bud for the amazing day. #summitspaghetti 👌👌 #sogood
“My partner Dexter and I took it to the top, and (almost losing our approach shoes) made it back to Banff for late night pizza around mid-night,” said Trotter.
“It was the most perfect day. At first I thought the rope drag would be too much. So stoked it went down. The climb finally feels complete to me. Thanks to everyone who helped make it happen.”