Sonnie Trotter’s Brand New Sugar Daddy

Sonnie Trotter added a  new 5.14 to Squamish in early May with his Sugar Daddy 5.14. It is a direct start to Big Daddy Overhang, 5.12, (F.A. Peter Croft and Tami Knight – 1981) and brings a project he started in spring 2009 and spent a total of about seven days on to completion.  Trotter says “It climbs really aggressively, powerful, lots of heel hooking and squeezing, two tiny crimps and a sketchy mantel at the top, about two body lengths above the last pieces of gear, which are placed almost blind behind a solid, but disconcerting flake. The climbing is about V10/11, so I’ll call it 5.14, and let it ride.  But what makes it challenging is the headspace, and placing the gear on lead, and the time it takes to place the gear so carefully.” Although  Trotter had considered bolting it, he says ” Jeremy Blumel and Will Stanhope sort of convinced me that it wasn’t that dangerous, so I just pulled up my skirt and went for it.”