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Speaking Moistly 5.12 and New 5.14 Routes in New Brunswick

The climbs are at Hampton Marsh, an older crag with climbs added in 2020

New Brunswick has a number of new hard sport routes at Hampton Marsh that have been bolted and climbed this spring. Seb Pacey-Smith is a top Maritime climber who’s established routes like Cipher, which is likely the hardest rock climb at 5.14c on Canada’s east coast.

Hampton Marsh was had spurts of development over the past decade with Peter Adamson adding routes to Monster and Main Wall back in 2012. Other climbers like François and Emily Côté, Ian Lingley and the late Cory Hall have developed climbs. Pacey-Smith and friends rediscovered the area’s potential and have added a number of new routes. You can find them all online here.

Some of the new lines include: Balrog 5.14b, Frankenstein’s Monter 5.14a, Pumpkin Head 5.13c, Lockdown 5.13c and Speaking Moistly 5.12b. The topo says: “As with any of the areas in Hampton Marsh, the rock quality is not always the best and helmets are recommended.” Check out some of Pacey-Smith’s videos of the new routes below.

Fredericton Bouldering

Also of note in New Brunswick is the reopening of the Fredericton Bouldering Co-op which you can read more about here.