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Squamish Gets a Cool New Crag for Trad and Mixed Lines

A topo was just released for 'Mycology Rock', a new crag near Alice Lake developed by Kyle Smith

If you are a fan of mixed climbs – routes that involve both placing gear and clipping bolts – then Squamish has a new crag for you. Mycology Rock is a freshly scrubbed west-facing wall found off the popular Wonderland trail near Alice Lake. The crag sports an easy 10-minute approach from the car and houses five mixed lines, two gear lines, a fully bolted sport climb, and an open project. Grades range from 5.10+ to 5.12, but there’s potential for even harder lines in the future with the addition of extensions on top of the existing routes.

Photographer and climber Kyle Smith discovered the crag and did all the scrubbing, prepping, and bolting. Hardware was provided by the Sea to Sky Route Development Fund. The list of current climbs includes:

  • Psilocybin 5.12 (mixed)
  • Mycotopia 5.10 (mixed)
  • Mycotopia Direct Start 5.12- (mixed)
  • Amanita Dreaming 5.12- (mixed)
  • Matsutake 5.11- (trad)
  • Chasing Mycelium 5.10+ (trad)
  • The Future is Fungi 5.11+ (mixed)
  • Flight of the Goomba 5.11+ (sport)

Smith made the first ascent of all routes except Amanita Dreaming 5.12- which was FA’d by Casey Dubois and Flight of the Goomba 5.11+ which was FA’d by Dale Anderson. The first ascent of an open project extension of The Future is Fungi is currently up for grabs.

You can check out the newly released PDF topo for Mycology Rock here. The crag is also found on Mountain Project with lots of photos of the impressive lines.