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Steep New M9 WI4 Multi-Pitch in Quebec

L'Arche Deguire is this strong team's fifth new mixed route on this remote wall

A new four-pitch 140-metre M9 WI4 has been established at Le Pic de L’Aurore in Percé, Quebec. Jean Francois Girard reported that he and Carl Darveau have established their fifth route on the vertical wall.

Their most recent is called L’Arche Deguire and it starts 25 metres right from the classic Moby Dick, which Girard and Darveau repeated in 2021 – read about it here. They named it in honour of Lise Deguire, a local friend of Girard and Darveau.

“We watched this route every year, with fear and respect,” said Girard. “The second pitch is a beautiful trad crack on perfect limestone.” Darveau led the 20-metre M5. The third pitch heads up steep ice to a hanging crack. The 22-metre eight-bolt goes at M9 and finishes through a chossy roof. The final 25-metre pitch goes at M7+ WI4.

“This climb took us two days to clean and should be investigated before a repeat due to the nature of the rock,” said Girard. “Thanks to Carl Darveau again for this Journey and psych to commit on this monster.” Girard also thanks Felix Lafond, Matteo Arnaldi, Camp USA and Groupe Gama Sports.