Steve McClure Climbs Bold Trad Route in UK
He's made a rare repeat of an E9 called Mission Impossible in Ogwen Valley
British climbing legend Steve McClure has redpointed Mission Impossible, an E9 7a in the Ogwen Valley of north Wales. McClure has been one of the world’s best trad climbers for decades.
The protection on Mission Impossible ranges from old pitons to very small gear, but the crux has a 21-foot runout, which means there’s potential for a 45-foot fall. “Been on my list for years but I never expected an opportunity,” said McClure. “This super steep E9 trad route is mostly protected by pegs so F8b makes sense too. I had a look on abseil by myself a few days ago and found it nails and was kind of put off, but Caff was keen for some climbing and I found myself tied in and going for it.”
The route was first climbed in 1997 by Neil Carson but wasn’t repeated until 2009 for a repeat by James (Caff) McHaffie. Subsequent ascents have been by Oli Grounsell in 2016, Hazel Findlay and Angus Kille in 2020, and Dave MacLeod and James Taylor in 2022.
“First go a foot slip denied me right at the top after all the hard climbing,” said McClure. “Second go, with light fading and not expecting much I somehow found myself on the mini-rest before the last hard section, wishing I’d remembered the cam and facing a monster lob! Spicey. But what a route, made even better to squeeze in when not even expecting to go climbing, and in some of the most beautiful weather I’ve seen in Wales for years.”
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