Cedar Wright and Lucho Rivera have freed a big new line on Fifi Buttress in Yosemite. Wright and Rivera’s new route is called The Dream Team, a 10-pitch 5.13a. “We are calling the route The Dream Team as a kind of tongue-in-cheek poke at the fact that Austin Siadak, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold managed a new free route on the Dawn Wall in less time than our much better but much shorter FiFi route,” said Wright.
“But also because Lucho and I have established some dream routes over the years here in Yosemite and it really has been an all time climbing partnership for me that has spanned two decades.” In 2013, the two teamed up and made the first free ascent of Mahtah, a 16-pitch 5.13 on Liberty Cap in Yosemite.
Rivera has established a number of big walls routes around the world, including big repeats in Yosemite. “My time spent in Yosemite helped shape me into the climber that I am today,” he said. “By far my most memorable climbing experiences have been on new routes. The adventurous spirit inside me loves the exploration involved with first ascents.”
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In the last four weeks @cedarwright and I managed to establish and free a beautiful new route up Fifi Buttress in Yosemite Valley. Our line follows an incredible path of interesting climbing with everything from chimney climbing on one pitch to arete slapping on the next pitch. Cedar had some heroic leads on our send day and on our ground up ascent as we worked our way up the wall over the past month. Its been a ton of fun roping up with my old buddy and mentor Cedar. A partnership that spans almost two decades with many first ascents and adventures together. Much love to @amarginall and @trevorshus for equipping and letting us climb the last few pitches of their route! @danmcdevitt1 for inspiring us all! @cultofthewild for the company and hang spot! Always my love @small_wonder for the constant support and amazing food to power us up the climb!!! @bluewaterropes @lasportivana #bluewaterropes #lasportiva #lasportivagram #yosemitepark
Other Fifi Buttress routes include Centre of the Universe 5.11, Voyager 5.11c, Make it So 5.8 A4, Final Frontier 5.13- and Romulan Warbird 5.12c.
Last week, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell completed a new free route near the Dawn Wall at 5.13. Caldwell said it has some of the best rock climbing he’s ever done.
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@tommycaldwell just posted about our recent journey up El Cap so I figured I’d join in. We climbed a new free line that follows @leo_houlding’s old route Passage to Freedom and continues 20 more pitches to the top. Incredible 5.13+ corners up high. @austin_siadak spent 4 days on the wall with us documenting and helping with all the bigwall toil. An incredible experience which reminded me that Tommy really is the best big wall climber in the world and that I still have a lot to learn. Nothing like El Cap to humble you…