Tomoa Narasaki Flashes a V16, Says it’s V14
This was the problem's third ascent and the first ascentionist agrees with the new grade
Olympic competitor and world champion Tomoa Narasaki has flashed Gakidō, in Chigobutai, Japan, for the problem’s third ascent. It was originally graded V16, but Narasaki has said that it’s likely V14. This would be Narasaki’s second V14 flash after flashing Decided in 2019.
Gakidō was first climbed by Shinichiro Nomura in 2022, who suggested that it might be V16. He had previously climbed three V15 problems. Top boulderer Ryuichi Murai made the second ascent of Gakidō and noted that it felt easier than other V16 problems that he’d climbed.
About the grade, Narasaki said, “As for the grade, I haven’t had the chance to try many boulders above V15 so it is hard to say, but after speaking to Shinichiro Nomura we agreed that V14 sounded right for the problem.” The first ascent video was published by Mellow in 2022 with a grade of V15 – watch below.
After Narasaki made quick work of the Gakidō, he went to work piecing together a sit start. “After I sent Gakido, I was able to complete the sit-down project of Gakido as well. I hope to be able to present the name and the grade of the low start at a later time.” Other climbers have suggested the sit start might be in the V16 range.
First Ascent
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