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Top French Climber Luce Douady, 16, Dies in Accident

The bouldering youth world champion was a rising start and considered by many as the future of French climbing

On June 14, the world champion 16-year-old French climber Luce Douady lost her life in an accident at a crag close to Grenoble. According to Le Dauphiné, she was with a group of friends while approaching Le Luisset/St Pancrasse close to where she lived in Saint-Bernard, when she slipped on the approach and fell. She started climbing at a young age with her father.

In 2019, Douady won the world youth championships in bouldering in Arco and placed third in lead, and finished third in the senior European lead championships in Edinburgh, in September. Last June, at 15, she placed fifth at the Vail World Cup.

Last month, she sent 5.14a shortly after the lockdown in France was lifted. Grimper.com reported a few weeks ago that she was projecting Mister Hyde 5.14c at Céüse and that “She was the future of climbing.”

The International Federation of Sport Climbing commented on her loss in a statement: It is with great sadness that the International Federation of Sport Climbing learned of the tragic loss of French climber Luce Douady, at the age of 16. Luce was a young, brilliant and talented athlete who won her first Youth World Championships title at last year’s competition in Arco (ITA), where she first placed 3rd in the Youth A Lead final, and then climbed atop the podium in the Youth A Bouldering event.

Also in 2019, Luce made her first appearance in the IFSC Boulder World Cup circuit, debuting with a fantastic 5th place in Vail (USA), while finishing 20th at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Hachioji (JPN) and participating in two Lead World Cup events in Chamonix (FRA) and Inzai (JPN). The IFSC’s thoughts and prayers are with Luce’s family and friends at this tragic time.’

Our condolences to Luce’s family and friends.