Two Monster New Ice/Mixed Routes in Austria

Early in December, Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Isidor Poppeller climbed Mehr denn je Hintersee on Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern of Austria. The big new 800-metre route goes at M7+ WI6+. On PlanetMountain.com, Messini said, “After a 200-metre WI4 icefall, we trudged across snow slope that led to the line we had in mind.

“This offered everything you could wish for, a Chamonix-like gully, followed by an icy slab and a fragile drip, as well as a mixed pitch, some classical alpine terrain capped by some icy steps. When we finally reached the summit in the dark we were overjoyed to have had such a great adventure on such a cool line in our backyard mountains! We were careful as we abseiled off and then enjoyed a celebratory pizza in the Gasthaus late that night!” Read more about their climb here.

Messini and Poppeller then climbed a new 1,200-metre WI5 they called Pinzga Stier up Hochbirghöhe. Their route is to the right of the classics Goaskogelfall WI6 200m and Turbine M6 WI6 180m. Conditions were ideal with less-than-usual snowpack and lots of ice. The team forgot their V-threader so decided not to rappel their new route.

Instead they climbed to the summit and rappelled down Mehr denn je Hintersee. On PlanetMountain.com, Messini wrote, “A few short WI3 steps led us to a hidden section of the route. In a narrow gully, the icefall steepened once again.

“Although structure-less, the ice was nevertheless soft enough and a good 60-metre pitch paved the way for the upper section of the route.” Read more about the new route here.