Home > East

Two New 100-metre 5.11 Bolted Routes in Ontario

The Eyeball is a big climbing wall in central Ontario near Sudbury that’s seen spurts of development over the past few years. The wall is over 100 metres at its highest point and has a number of climbs from 5.4 to 5.11+. The drive from Toronto takes just over six hours.

The 400-metre long wall has several lines of weaknesses that have been climbed, including the classic six-pitch Northern Etiquette 5.9. Last fall, top Ontario ice climbers Rebecca Lewis and Nathan Kutcher climbed two new 100-metre three-pitch 5.11 bolted routes.

Conspiracy Theory 5.11+ heads up a technical dihedral to a small belay stance past 15 bolts. The second pitch climbs steep rock on good holds to a high crux with 14 bolts and the third pitch is a tricky 5.10+ with 14 bolt.

The Disruptor is another three-pitch 5.11 that starts to the right and crosses Conspiracy Theory. And Lord of Flies is a new 60-metre 5.11 that starts to left of Conspiracy Theory. All three routes are reported to have excellent rock.

There’s a lot more room to develop new routes at Eyeball, but access is tricky. To find out more about the fun crag visit here.

A: Lord of Flies / B: Conspiracy Theory / C: Disruptor