V16 First Ascent for Will Bosi
While in in Magic Wood, the Scottish climber also sent a trio of V14s
On April 19, Will Bosi made the first ascent of Brain Rot V16 (8C+) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. The crimp problem is found on a bloc to the left of the Jack’s Broken Heart, a classic V12 in the area. The difficulty of Brain Rot essentially boils down to three-move crimp sequence, where holding tension is key. The problem was discovered by Dave Graham, who also introduced Bosi to the line.
After his send Bosi felt unsure about the grade, believing it to be soft V16 or hard V15. “Grade wise it’s definitely far harder than any of the [V14s] I’ve done this trip and suits me well so I’m sure it’s either [V15] or [V16],” he said via Instagram. “I decided to go for the plus but time will tell.”
Bosi sent several other hard problems while in Magic Wood. On April 12, he sent two V14s in a day: Dace Graham’s Axinite and Marco Müller’s Ninjutsu. Eleven days later he topped Space Cadet, a V14 established by Giuliano Cameroni.
Bosi’s has four V17 repeats to his name. In October 2022, he climbed his first of the grade, making the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. Less than six months later, he bagged his second V17 with his second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams. In February last year, he made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker in Red Rock, Nevada. In October, he surprised many with a rapid second ascent of Aidan Roberts’ Spots of Time. In February this year, he made the second ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi’s Excalibur. With the ascent, he joined Jakob Schubert and Sean Bailey in the very small group of climbers who have climbed both 5.15c and V17.
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