Home > News

Watch Adam Ondra on FA of Brutal Rider V16

Without the Olympics 2020, the top climber has refocused on hard rock climbs

Watch Adam Ondra making his May 2020 first ascent of Brutal Rider at Sloup, it’s one of the hardest route in the Czech Republic at V16. On Instagram, Ondra said that he’s been avoiding hard outdoor bouldering for 10 years to focus on comp climbing. However, due to covid and the postponing of Olympics, many top climbers are refocusing on real rock.

“They might not be the best lines ever,” he wrote. “They usually lack topouts, but they are hard, they are there and they simply need to be sent, especially as the moves are usually intricate and interesting!” Ondra also made the first ascent of Icebreaker V16 last week.

Brutal Rider links the start of Brutus V12 into Ghost Rider V15, but Ondra said it could be considered 5.15b because it has 25 moves. The fall zone is complicated, as he and his spotters had to used pallets to keep the crashpads out of shallow water.

View this post on Instagram

Over the last 10 years, I have been neglecting hard outdoor bouldering, mostly either focusing on competitions or when focusing on rock climbing, sport climbing (with rope) always had priority. Bouldering was more of a tool for training. But around my home, there are hard bouldering projects. They might not be the best lines ever, they usually lack topouts, but they are hard, they are there and they simply need to be sent, especially as the moves are usually intricate and interesting! This spring I have had more time to focus on them. Watch the first ascent of Brutal Rider 8C+ (V16) in the next episode! The boulderproblem is long, it has 25 hard moves and could also be graded as hard 9b sport route. Last time, when I did an 8C+, was 10 years ago. It is a lower start into Ghost Rider, an 8C first ascended by Martin Stranik last year. And it links "Brutus", an 8A+ (Brutus exits left into relatively easy terrain) into the start of Ghost Rider. Pic by @pet.phot Link to new episode in bio. @blackdiamond @montura_official @lasportivagram @gardatrentino @mazagrande

A post shared by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on

Brutal Rider V16

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

The Best Climbing Gear According to Our Editors – April

Every month we're bringing you our favourite gear so you can complete your climbing kit with the latest and best stuff out there