Home > News

Wild New Mixed-Trad 5.12c on Pagan Boulder in B.C.

It's one of the coolest looking gear climbs close to the town of Field

Francois “Frank” Bergeron spotted a wild discontinuous crack on the Pagan Boulder near Field, B.C., last year and went up to take a look.

This year, after a stint working as a rope access technician on wind turbines in Manitoba, Bergeron returned to the west hoping to get back on the project.

Niall approaching the Pagan Boulder at the base of Cathedral mountain.

A post shared by Francois (@francoisbeargeron) on

Bergeron, a strong sport climber, had added some bolts between the cracks, but left the remaining face to be protected by gear. He called it Dirty Magic.

This spring, Bergeron recruited Niall Hamill to go and take a look the project, which rises from the scree at the base of Cathedral Mountain.

They could climb the crack with gear already placed, but wanted a true redpoint. On June 19, Hamill sent the the route first, followed quickly by Bergeron.

Dirty Magic is a 15-metre 5.12c that climbs a slightly overhanging wall on a giant boulder.

“Francois came across this boulder last fall and equipped the obvious line with an anchor and bolts at the upper section where the crack disappears into a series of pinches and edges,” said Hamill. Today Francois and I each took a warm up burn, then I sent second go, and Francois followed suit. Our friend Dan Dick came out for a hike to get inspired and take some photos. Thanks, Dan!”

A post shared by Niall Hamill (@niallhamill) on

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

The Best Climbing Gear According to Our Editors – March

Every month we're bringing you our favourite gear so you can complete your climbing kit with the latest and best stuff out there