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Wild West is New 150-metre WI6R/X Climbed in Squamish

The route froze in 1993, but this is the first ascent of any ice line on the wall

In 1993, a cold snap froze a number of tall ice lines in the Squamish Valley. The wall has likely froze in the past 27 years, but little information about it can be found. A new 120-metre WI6R/X was just added to the area.

According to local legend Don Serl, the late Guy Edwards attempted a big line but backed off due to conditions. That line is the one that Paul McSorley, Sam Eastman and Tim Emmett just climbed and called Wild West, with pitches at: WI5+, WI6, WI6R/X.

Paul McSorley on Wild West WI6R/X Photo Tim Emmett

Serl and Rob Nugent then attempted a route to the right of Wild West and climbed two pitches up to WI5. Ice climbing gear in 1993 wasn’t what it is today, and climbing a line like that with straight tools and old screws wouldn’t have been easy. Serl said that once the sun hit their line it began to fall apart so they bailed.

Wild West is the first known route on the wall, which the FA team is called the Shooting Gallery. Watch the first ascent of Ultimate, Ultimate Everything up The Chief with McSorley in 2017 below.

The Polar Vortex that blanketed western Canada with extreme cold this past week seems to be giving way to warmer weather. The Squamish ice season might not last much longer, but climbers in the area have bee making good use of the chilly conditions.

Ultimate, Ultimate Everything