Words with Becca Frangos on Sending Endless Summer 5.13d

Becca Frangos is an 18-year-old crusher based in Canmore. She is not stranger to headlines as she has been pushing herself on hard projects for the past decade. Now, a few days before Canada Day, she has sent a three-year project. Endless Summer is a classic Acephale 5.13d that was first climbed by Scott Milton in 2001.

When did you first learn about Endless Summer? I first heard about the route when I was up at Acephale with Vikki Weldon. It was the summer of 2013 and I had just sent my first 5.13b called The Hood. I remember Vikki showing me the line and telling me to maybe try it the next year. Vikki sent the route in 2011 (read about it here). The route was daunting, as it threads right up the middle of the main roof at Acephale. At the time, it seemed impossible, as the moves looked so big, the holds were small and hard to see and the vertical top section looked terrifying. There were so many reasons for me to just say maybe I will try something easier but I thought why not give it a go.

So stoked to have sent my project "Endless Summer" 5.13d/8b up at Acephale, my second of the grade. This was my first true outdoor project that I've had to work on for longer than one summer. It has been really amazing seeing the progression in my climbing over the past two summers I've had on the route before my few sessions on it this year. In a way I'm sad it's done, but I am also so stoked to be feeling so fit leading up to the World Cups I am competing at in Europe. Thank you to my sister for the sending belay and to Alex for the cool photo!! @alex_fricker @sara_frangos @flashedclimbing @lasportivana #foryourmountain #genius #todrapant #flashedchalkbestchalk

A photo posted by Becca Frangos (@becca_frangos) on Jun 29, 2016 at 9:01pm PDT

When did you first attempt it and had you climbed the grade before? I first attempted the route the summer of 2014. Yes, I have climbed one other 5.13d. The route was called Labyrinth in Kalymnos Greece. I climbed that route back in September 2015

What was it like having a three year project? Like I mentioned above, I first got on the route the summer of 2014, which is the summer I definitely put the most attempts into it, mainly because at the time it still felt way out of reach. Last summer I trained inside mostly for youth worlds so I only got up to Acephale to work on it three to four times but I did get my personal high point on the route. This summer I had one other session two weeks ago before I sent yesterday.

The progression I saw over the time I spent on the route was definitely special. I remember the first time I tried the route I said “this will never go” because at the time there was so many sections that felt so improbable. But overtime as I unlocked different sequences the route started to piece together and it actually felt like something that I might be able to send. The biggest difference I noticed this year, was the first crux move, which is a jump for me . I used to stick the move maybe once out of ten tries from the hang. But this year I would stick it first try from the ground and climb the rest of the crux above without falling (only to fall above the crux) . I knew it was only a matter of a few more tries before everything came together.

Can you describe the crux? I do the crux completely differently than everyone else because I am unable to span the first crux move, so this probably won’t make much sense to people who have sent the route but I will try to explain it. The crux begins about four bolts up just as the angle changes to the steepest section of the climb. It starts off with a burly jump off a small pinch to a decent flat rail (previously something you could match before the hold broke a few years ago) from there it is all about staying precise and efficient for the transition over the lip.

After sticking the jump, there are two hard moves to two flat holds then you pop over the lip to a pitiful sloper and throw out left for a decent undercling. From here most people do one more big bump move and huck for the horn (the hold that is better then the rest but still not a jug) instead when I hit the undercling I cross far out left to a two finger flat crimp, drop knee and cross over my left hand to another two finger flat crimp above and reach the horn. From the horn there is one more big move up before reaching two pockets you can rest on before the top section. This is the end of the crux. The next four bolts before the anchor aren’t too difficult once you get the moves dialed but the mono sequence guarding the anchor can be heartbreaking if you are too pumped.

Who was belaying you and cheering you on? My sister Sara was belaying me for the send, which was very special – she’s my partner in crime. There was lots of people at the crag and lots of cheering and congratulations from many different climbers. Thanks everyone! Also a shout out to Elise Sethna for helping me stick-clip the first bolt because I’m a shorty and thanks Alex Fricker for the sick photos!!

How did you celebrate? I went to the Ice Cream Bus in Canmore and ate some chocolate peanut butter ice cream.

What’s next this summer? I am currently training hard for three Lead World Cups in Europe (Chamonix, Briancon and Villars) for which I leave on July 7. When I am back from competing at the end of July I am going to focus on getting on some more hard outdoor climbs for the rest of August before I head to Victoria for University at the beginning of September. Then training for the upcoming comp season begins again.