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World Cup Champ Sends Her First V14

Shortly after winning the Briançon Lead World Cup, Mei Kotake topped New Base Line V14

Mei Kotake had a very successful month of climbing in Europe in July. The 27-year-old Team Japan member made her first-ever World Cup podium at the Lead World Cup in Chamonix on July 14, earning bronze. Less than a week later, she won gold at Lead World Cup in Briançon. The competition marked her 25th World Cup participation.

After wrapping up the comps, Kotake visited Magic Wood, Switzerland for some bouldering. The highlight of her trip was sending the popular New Base Line V14 (8B+), her first-ever V14. “I sent one of beautiful [lines] in Magic Wood,” said Kotake about the climb on Instagram. “I’m so happy that all missions were completed in [my] Europe tour.” July 2024 was a month of firsts for Kotake: first World Cup podium, first World Cup gold, and first V14 send.

New Base Line V14 is an ultra-classic. Bernd Zangerl made the first ascent of the problem way back in 2002, originally grading the line V15. With subsequent ascents, the grade settled at V14. Many of climbing’s best have climbed the problem including Fred Nicole, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Carlo Traversi, Jimmy Webb, Shauna Coxsey, Giuliano Cameroni, Michaela Kiersch, Matt Fultz, and Katie Lamb, among others.

Other than New Base Line, Kotake’s biggest outdoor climbing accomplishment was a redpoint of Era Vella 5.14d in Margalef, Spain in 2022. You can watch her top New Base Line in an Instagram video below.

 

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