10 Climbing Grade Milestones Since 1961
A handful of the most inspiring ascents from around the world over the past 60 years
There have been several climbing grade milestones over the past 60 years and it often takes around five years to progress to the next one, so since the last one was seven years ago are we in for another soon? Here are 10 famous grade milestones since 1961.
Thimble: In 1961, John Gill free-soloed this now-classic climb in South Dakota as the first-ever consensus 5.12a. “When Gill ascended it in 1961, it was the hardest route of its length or longer in America,” said John Sherman in Stone Crusade. “This 30-foot-tall, mitten-shaped pinnacle rises out of the Needle’s Eye pullout on the Needles Highway.”
The Phoenix: In 1977, Ray Jardine made the first ascent of this impressive crack in Yosemite, it became the first consensus 5.13a in history. “The Phoenix is the hardest thing I’ve ever done,” said Jardine in a 1979 Mountain Magazine interview.
The Face: In 1983, Jeffy Moffat made the first ascent of this line in Altmühltal, Germany. It follows tiny pockets up an overhanging wall and was the first consensus 5.13c.
Hubble: In 1990, Ben Moon made the first ascent of this line at Raven Tor in England. It was the first 5.14c in history, but subsequent ascents have suggested it’s 5.14d, which would make it the first 5.14d – read more.
Action Directe: Wolfgang Gullich made the first ascent of this burly Frankenjura line in 1991 at 5.14c/d, but it was later upgraded to 5.14d as the first consensus route at that grade.
Biographie: In 2001, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of this Céüse test-piece as the first consensus 5.15a ever climbed.
Jumbo Love: In 2008, Sharma made the first ascent of this monster route in California as the first consensus 5.15b in history. A direct start was added in 2022 at 5.15c – read more here.
Change: In 2012, Adam Ondra made the first ascent of this steep line in Flatanger as the first consensus 5.15c ever.
La Rambla: In 2017, Margo Hayes made history by becoming the first woman to climb a 5.15a with this classic, she followed it up with a repeat of Biographie.
Silence: Also in 2017, Adam Ondra opened the first-ever 5.15d with Silence. There are now three proposed 5.15d routes, but none have been repeated. See a list of the hardest climbs in the world here.
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