First Ascent of Himalayan Peak After Decade of Attempts
Francois Cazzanelli has succeeded in completing a first ascent on remote peak after first trying in 2015
Italian mountain guide Francois Cazzanelli has climbed the elusive 6,781-metres Kimshung after three failed attempts, summiting the Nepalese peak on Oct. 20 with a streamlined international team.
Cazzanelli first targeted Kimshung in spring 2015, followed by a fall 2016 bid, and joined a seven-member Italian expedition in 2024 that made two unsuccessful summit pushes. Undeterred, he returned this autumn with familiar partner Giuseppe Vidonim also from the 2024 team, plus Austrian climbers Benjamin Zoerer and Lukas Waldner, and photographer Damiano Levati.
The group maintained secrecy about their objective until the expedition’s conclusion. Kimshung, also known as Tsangbu Ri, rises in Langtang National Park near the Tibetan border. Cazzanelli’s team reports at least six expeditions have attempted it over the past decade, underscoring its reputation as a difficult unclimbed prize.
The climbers launched their ascent from 5,450 metres at the base of the Kimshung Glacier, tackling the northeast face in a single alpine-style push. They reached the summit at 12:30 pm on October 20 and descended to the valley by 7 pm, as detailed in their press release. The 1,300-metre route averages 60º in steepness, with the team assigning it technical grades of AI4 for ice and M5 for mixed climbing, marking a significant new line on this long-sought Himalayan summit.
