A Classic American East Coast Alpine Route

The east coast of the U.S.A. isn’t the first place climbers think about when the topic of alpine rock climbing comes up, but it’s home to a classic American alpine line: The Whitney-Gilman Ridge. The route follows the most obvious ridge of granite near the left side of Cannon in New Hampshire. First climbed in summer 1929 before the era of sticky rubber and dynamic ropes, this esthetic line was climbed ahead of its time. The first ascent team climbed it in 17 pitches, but it’s now climbed in four to six with the crux being 5.7 and most of the route coming in around 5.5.

The fourth pitch is famously called the Pipe Pitch because of a fixed piece of pipe in a crack after an exposed section. The first pipe was installed by Ken Henderson on one of the first repeats, but it was later removed by someone before being replaced again. The pipe created a protection point, before climbers were using cams or nuts, but it would also keep the rope from running in the crack and over a sharp edge. Since the first ascent nearly 100 years ago, locals have said that some cracks have widened slightly.

The climbing is thought-provoking throughout and there are good belay ledges but no fixed anchors, so you’ll have to know how to build trad anchors. There are a few old pitons along the way, but you’ll have to be good at route finding to have a successful day out. This is one of the most popular routes at Cannon and it makes a great introduction to the area.

The approach takes around an hour from the Trailhead Parking on Route 93. It’s recommended to climb it in six pitches, the first of which starts up a wide 5.7 crack. The second pitch follows a flake up fun moves at 5.5. The third pitch is called the V Groove, as it follows a groove up brown rock at 5.6. The Pipe Pitch takes you up a wide crack to a sheltered stance to a final crux, many climbers give this pitch 5.7+ or 5.8. The fifth pitch takes you across an obvious slab to a splitter crack and dihedral at 5.5. The final pitch takes you to another dihedral and to the top at 5.7.

There are several variations throughout that can make it harder, including the popular alternative third pitch which climbs an exposed 5.8 section. Follow the trail to descend. Bring a rack to three inches with a set of nuts and several slings for the fixed pitons. You only need one 60-metre rope, but since there are no fixed anchors you’ll have to leave gear if you bail. And wear a helmet.

Whitney-Gilman Ridge is one of America’s most classic alpine rock routes. Make a trip to Cannon Cliff to experience some of the east coast’s most stout long trad routes this summer.

10 Cannon Cliff Classics
Lakeview 5.6, 8 pitches
Weissners Dike 5.6, 6 pitches
Duet 5.7, 3 pitches
Moby Grape 5.8, 7 pitches
Union Jack 5.9, 5 pitches
Raven Crack 5.9+, 3 pitches
Sticky Fingers 5.10+, 2 pitches
VMC Direct Direct 5.10+, 9 pitches
Labyrinth Wall Direct 5.11, 7 pitches
Benedictus/Masterpiece 5.11c, 11 pitches