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A Must-Climb Squamish 5.13a Sport Route

First climbed in 2020, The Clampdown has become one of the most sought-after 5.13a sport routes in the area

Squamish has a long list of must-climb classics, from burly boulders to tall single-pitch test-pieces to multi-pitch adventures, and The Clampdown, a new-in-2020 sport route, can now be added to that list.

Charlie Long established The Clampdown on a large boulder high in the North Walls of The Chief. The six-bolt line is found on the steep hillside behind the Squaminator boulder, downhill from the Pox Wall. Originally graded 5.13b, most climbers are suggesting 5.13a with some stating that it could be a solid 5.12d.

The powerful line has been repeated a lot over the past few years, including by many of the west coast climbers with years of granite experience behind them. “Wow! This route might be one of the very best sport climbs in Squamish,” said Kim McGrenere. “Truly incredible. Mantling over the top, untying, and then tossing the rope is bliss.”

Five other bolted 5.13a routes to check out in Squamish this summer include Young Blood, Just Can’t Do It, The Lorax, Animal Instinct and First Blood.

Jared Nelson’s Send

Aidan Pinsk’s Send