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Alex Megos Makes First Ascent in Margalef, Suggests 5.15b/c

Tuareg Blanco 5.15b/c is the German climber's third of the grade since August

Alex Megos just announced that he made the first ascent of Tuareg Blanco in Margalef, Spain. Located at the Racó de les Espadelles crag, the line was bolted by Adrien Boulon in 2014, and since then has become a longstanding open project. Megos spent a total of 15 days over two trips to unlock the climb.

“I came to Margalef with this one route in mind,” said Megos on Instagram. “I didn’t really know if it was possible in the amount of time I had, but I wanted to give it everything. Almost 3 weeks later and 11 days of trying (plus 4 days some years ago) I managed to clip the chains of this legendary project. Legendary for me at least. It was mostly only tried by [Ramon Julian] which didn’t make it more appealing. A little more info (and a video) will follow. Looking forward to hearing what other people think about the grade. Thank you to all the people who supported me on this journey.”

With Tuareg Blanco, Megos starts 2025 off strong. He had an incredible 2024, repeating Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15b and Adam Ondra’s Change 5.15b/c and Move 5.15b/c, while also competing at the Paris Olympics. In the autumn, he battled a potential 5.15d project in a recent trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. He made good progress but was unable to finish up the climb, dealing with some serious skin issues.

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