Alpine Lessons from the Canadian Rockies
It was 14 years ago that Josh Wharton had a successful trip to the Rockies, his lessons from then still apply today
Photo by: John Scurlock
In May 2012, Josh Wharton stormed the Canadian Rockies and climbed Wild Thing (VI WI4 M7) on Mount Chephren with Chris Alstrin, made the second ascent of Infinite Patience (VI WI4 M5) on the Emperor Face of Mount Robson with Jon Walsh, and repeated the Greenwood-Locke (V 5.10) on the north face of Mount Temple with Dylan Johnson and Mikey Schaefer.
Climbers are already finding frozen waterfalls to climb in the Rockies this month (read about it here), while others have found good conditions on alpine routes around Mount Athabasca and Diadem Peak.
“It was arguably one of the most successful 10-day periods of any alpine climber up there,” said Schaefer. Based in Estes Park, Wharton is one of the world’s best all-round climbers. “We thought the route was absolutely amazing, and in perfect conditions,” Walsh said about their ascent of Infinite Patience. “It was a big two-day weekend!” Wharton is one of the few climbers to send V14, M14 and 5.14.
In 2023, Wharton once again visited the Canadian Rockies and made the first free ascent of The 36th Chamber of the Windtower, a big 5.13. See photos of the ascent by Sonnie Trotter below. And watch a video featuring Wharton talking about the lessons he learned in the video called Alpine Lessons in the Canadian Rockies.
Lessons from the Rockies
Seven Classic Hard Rockies Alpine Climbs
Grand Central Couloir V M6 WI5 on Mount Kitchener
Andromeda Strain V M5 on Mount Andromeda
The Greenwood/Locke V 5.10 on Mount Temple
North Face IV of Mount Bryce
Infinite Patience VI M6 WI5 on Emperor Face of Mount Robson
Wild Thing V M7 on Mount Chephren
North Face VI 5.10 of Mount Alberta
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