A bolt ripped out of the rock on the nine-pitch of the classic Rockies mixed route Rocket Man this week. It’s not the first time that a bolt has ripped out of a climb in the Canadian Rockies and it won’t be the last.
Top U.K. climber Tom Livingstone broke a hold on the seventh pitch and took a whipper, which ripped the third bolt out. The second bolt had already been pulled out several years earlier by Jon Walsh. With two bolts missing on the pitch, Livingstone and his partner, Landon Thompson, turned around.
Rocket Man was first climbed in 1999 by David Thomson, Kafira Allen, Eric Dumerac and Raphael Slawinski and has been repeated several times. Bring a bolt kit if you plan on heading up the monster route near the Snowbird Glacier.
Adventurous day on Rocketman yesterday with new friend @tom__livingstone. Everything was going great, we had sent the crux 3rd pitch and had lots of time for pitches 7, 8, and 9. Tom started up the 7th pitch, pulled a block off, and fell onto the cord connected to the 3rd bolt. The bolt pulled out and down he came. The second bolt had been pulled out by Jon Walsh several years back so now there are two bolts missing. We had no choice but to head down. Sadness. P1: Rocketman. P2: The Snowbird Glacier cirque below Mt. Patterson. P3: Tom starting up the first pitch. P4: Tom activating his mountain sense at the top of the 3rd pitch. P5: Tom leading the 7th pitch, just before he took the bolt ripping fall. P6: Tom with a souvenir to help him fondly remember the high quality rock here in the Canadian Rockies. P7: Back at the van. #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #iceclimbing #mixedclimbing #canadianrockies #alberta #banffnationalpark
Fun times with @landonthompson87 on Rocket Man until a bolt exploded. Still, it was good until then (pitch 7), and reminded me of how enjoyable and casual ‘bolted’ mixed climbing can be . When a hold ripped I fell onto the bolt, which popped the rock. From then, the character of the day changed significantly. I really want to like climbing in Canada, but when holds and bolts break it moves away from Type 1 fun. . Cheers for the idea and photos Landon.