Bouldering in Sicily: Exploring the Sandstone Blocs of Bosco Scorace

This article was originally featured in the June/July 2025 print issue of Gripped Magazine, written by Jessica Kuepfer and Aaron Pardy.

When climbers think of Sicily, the classic limestone sport and multi-pitch climbs of San Vito Lo Capo and Palermo come to mind. But new to the scene are hundreds of sandstone problems on boulders dotting the woods of Bosco Scorace in the northwest of the Italian island. The sandstone blocs offer everything you would hope for in texture and stone quality, the landings are confidence-inspiring, and the climbing is techy, athletic, and varied. If you want to spend some time bouldering in a destination that is off the beaten path, Bosco Scorace is for you.

Development of the area began in 2016, led by local climber Davide Catalano. When he discovered the area, most of the problems were entirely covered by brambles. Since then, over 400 lines scattered across seven sectors have slowly been unearthed, and Catalano believes there is the potential for the area to eventually house 1,500 to 2000 problems. While the biannual Scorace Block Fest has helped to hype the area, you can for the most part expect to avoid crowds as you boulder in the peaceful forest.

 

About the climbing

Located in the Sicilian countryside between Palermo and Trapani, the boulders lie in the beautiful eucalyptus woods of Bosco Scorace. The rock features immaculate pockets, picture-perfect slopers, crimps, and unique holes with rounded rock in the centre resembling gigantic belly buttons. Because the area is so new, the texture of the rock is amazing, but sore tips are almost inevitable. Bring good skin.

The bomber sandstone offers something for everyone, from novice to expert. The grades range from V0 to V14, and with the potential for harder lines still. The grading is fair, so don’t expect holiday grades on your visit or you may be disappointed. You also don’t need to steel yourself for sandbagged grades, although some of the sit-starts may break your heart (as per usual).

The problems encompass a surprising variety of styles, including athletic power lines, hard crimp pulling, delicate slabs, technical mantles, and compression-style squeeze problems on slopers. The boulders are anywhere from two to eight meters high. The lowballs and highballs alike mostly feature excellent landings thanks to the natural topography of the area and thoughtful development. Between the spread of grades, the offering of shade, and gently sloping, well-maintained terrain, the area is great for families.

When to visit

The moderate winters of Sicily make for a long season of climbing. The best time to visit is from October to May, but you can still enjoy some climbing even in the summer months with the help of shade from the trees and a gentle breeze. Due to Bosco Scorace’s elevation, it’s often a little cooler at the boulders than the surrounding areas down by the sea.

How to get there

Bosco Scorace is located about 1 hour and 15 minutes from Palermo by car, or 45 minutes from San Vito Lo Capo if you are stationed there for a sport climbing trip. Approach times range from 30 seconds to an easy 15-minute walk, depending on where you park. You’ll definitely need a car to reach the area on your own, but car rentals are very affordable and convenient if you’re flying into Palermo.

Accommodation

In the nearby town of Ummari, Catalano and his wife run a B&B called Polvere di Stelle. You can rent crash pads here and purchase the guidebook. In addition to accommodations, the B&B boasts a training room equipped with hangboards and spray walls. Ummari is around 15 minutes away from the climbing by car. San Vito Lo Capo offers endless options for accommodations if you would like to have a mix of bouldering and sport climbing while on your trip.

Guidebook

You can visit Polvere di Stelle or Dolmen Climb in Trapani (Catalano’s bouldering gym) to purchase the guidebook. It will easily become your favourite guide in your collection with its eye-catching pop art design. At first glance, you might wonder if it is indeed for bouldering or just a work of art, but it is very functional and provides all of the information you need to direct you to your next project without any headaches. The problems are also listed on 27 Crags and the information on the app is updated regularly.

Ethics

As is standard for sandstone, you must wait for the rock to dry after rainfall and should not climb for two to three days after heavy precipitation. After short rain showers, you can often climb a few hours later as long as there’s enough sun and wind to thoroughly dry the rock. Chalk is allowed, but it is encouraged that you use a minimal amount and brush holds when you are finished. Only use soft brushes for cleaning holds.

Access is sensitive as the bouldering lies among fields and private properties—be respectful of the area by staying on trails, practicing leave-no-trace, and keeping your dogs on a leash to avoid interactions with sheep dogs and their herds. Fires are prohibited, as is camping in the bouldering field and in the woods. Talk with the folks at Polvere di Stelle for the latest information.

Food

Sicily is a food lover’s paradise. There are several restaurants in the area only five  minutes away by car from Ummari. There are also many grocery stores and greengrocers, or supermarket chains like Lidl and Conad. Bakeries are ubiquitous in Sicily and offer restaurant-quality food with all of the convenience of a grab-and-go bakery.

Some local delights include arancine (deep fried rice balls stuffed with bolognese, cheese and spinach, or cheese and prosciutto), sfincione (a pizza-like offering with a spongy dough topped with tomatoes, onions, cheese, anchovies, bread crumbs and/or olive oil), panne e paelle (a sandwich filled with chickpea fritter), and cannoli (tubes of fried dough filled with sweet ricotta topped with candied fruit, pistachios, or chocolate chips). Artichokes, fennel, Rosso Sicilian heirloom tomatoes, blood oranges, and almonds are just a few more delicacies that you shouldn’t miss.

Rest days

The list of rest day activities is endless as traversing the historically and culturally rich island of Sicily only takes roughly four hours from east to west. Archaeological sites, cathedrals, palaces, and a music scene that will make your heart sing await. The ancient Greek temple and theatre of Segesta and the Segesta Hot Springs are less than half an hour away from Bosco Scorace, as is the medieval hilltop town of Erice. The popular beaches in and around San Vito Lo Capo are world-class and mostly empty in the fall, winter, and spring.

Trapani, the capital of the province, is also nearby and is worth the visit to see its Baroque architecture, salt flats, and to treat yourself to dinner and a show. The Riserva Della Zingaro is one hour away and offers endless scenic trails overlooking the sea. You will most likely fly into Palermo and should plan to spend at least a day or two here at the start or end of your stay, or for a rest mid-trip.

Other climbing in the region

If you are a bouldering and sport climbing enthusiast in equal parts, a lifetime of sport climbing lines await in nearby San Vito Lo Capo, Custonaci, and Palermo. When your skin wears thin from bouldering on sandstone, you can clip some bolts on limestone overlooking the sea. Classic sectors include Cala Mancina and Crown of Aragon in San Vito Lo Capo, Never Sleeping Wall in Custonaci, and Bauso Rosso in Palermo.