Canada’s Most Iconic Big Wall Rock Climb
The Grand Wall was first climbed in 1961, it's now one of the most sought-after routes in the world

In 1961, Jim Baldwin and Ed Cooper completed their first ascent of the Grand Wall on The Chief after around six weeks of effort. The two were among the top big wall and alpine climbers of the time. Over 60 years later and the route remains Canada’s most iconic big wall rock climb.
The 500-metre Grand Wall was at the centre of a lot of media attention, so much so that people would stop on the side of the road to watch Baldwin and Cooper. After their monumental history-making ascent, Baldwin and Cooper graded their route 5.6 A1, but it now goes at 5.11 A0, or all-free at 5.13. The metal protection that Baldwin and Cooper used was mostly made by a Squamish blacksmith.
“Our ascent of the face of the Squamish Chief required some 135 bolts and probably 200 pitons,” Cooper wrote in the American Alpine Journal here. “Many mistakes were made, and perhaps others would have done better. But we made it, after nearly giving it up because of obstacles both on and off the face. No doubt the climb will be repeated, perhaps without the use of fixed ropes. Two days would be reasonable time for a competent party. But the challenge remains—that of a climb where only those who are thoroughly prepared should seriously consider the ascent, and even then, eventual success remains in doubt.”
Nowadays the Grand Wall is a classic trade route that gets climbed several times a day during summer. It’s nine pitches long and has sections named things like Split Pillar, Sword and Perry’s Lieback. You can watch a great film called In the Shadow of the Chief, about the first ascent, here. Below watch a 2024 ascent of the Grand Wall and the late Marc-André Leclerc free-soloing the Split Pillar pitch.

2024 Ascent
Free-Solo