Quinn Turner and Ryan Keen made the first ascent of Candle Wax, a 120-metre WI4 M4 in the Ghost Wilderness Area north of Calgary. The route climbs a new ice formation to the right of the classic Candle Stick Maker WI5 at the Orient Point area.
“Presents rock fall hazard as it’s not clean,” said Turner. “Leave the ape-ish swings at home, shes delicate. Be prepped to tie off a screw or two. Would benefit from carrying few pitons. Nuts will go in if you ask nicely.”
The first pitch climbs a WI3R M4 slab to a series of pillars. Head up a 35-metre WI4 pitch of steep ice. The third pitch follows low-angled ice to the top. Rappel Candle Stick Maker.
View this post on Instagram
A huge day for @ryan_keen_ & I, logging our 1st, First Ascent! Luck & conditions granted us the completion of a never-before-formed 120m mixed line near CSM in Orient point. We named it Candle Wax (WI4, M4). Beautiful steep pillars, & featured slab made for engaging climbing. We rapped into CSM, which spooky enough, collapsed 45 min after we got out of there! Mix it up! #alpineclubofcanada #ghost #waiporous #earlyseason
Orient Point Routes
Hidden Dragon III WI4 50m
Porn Wall: DVDA M7- 27m / Fluffin’ for Dollars M7 27m / Reverse Cowgirl M7+, 27m
The Joker III WI3 50m
The Hooker III WI5 200m
Candle Stick Maker IV WI5 150m
Green Dragon (bolted start to CSM) III M7- WI4 35m
Matchstick Maker (right of CSM and ends at ledge of second pitch of CSM) III 5.8 WI5
Candle Wax III M4 WI4 120m