Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron have climbed a new route on A Peak in Montana’s Cabinet Mountains.
They climbed from Nov. 18 to 21 and named their new alpine route Canmore Wedding Party AI5 M7 800m.
“Scott Coldiron has been trying to get the central couloir of the north face of A peak for a long time,” said Roskelly on social media.
“A” peak in the Cabinet mountains of Montana last week. It’s amazing that routes that good are pretty close out your back door. Alpine guys and gals should get in there! #dmmwales #neverstopexploring #lowa #thenorthface #montana @thenorthface_climb @dmm_wales @thenorthface @lowaboots 📸 by @alpine_tribe
“It’s located in the Cabinet mountains in Montana. From the lake to the summit it’s 1,200 metres with 800 metres of hard climbing.”
Roskelly wrote in a story for Alpinist here: “The last five pitches had taken us over seven hours. Exhausted, we sat down and enjoyed the last rays of the sun before packing up for the long and complicated descent along the north ridge. Little did we suspect that our journey’s end was not that near. There were places where what appeared to be easy ground ended up being the most treacherous.”
“We bivouacked once again, this time on the north ridge, after skirting and climbing around multiple gendarmes and ice-covered boulderfields in the dark. Early the next morning, we dropped another 2,000 feet through alpine forest to Granite Lake and the trail out. We reached the car 11 hours after leaving out bivouac.”
In 2004, at 20, Roskelly, the son of legendary mountaineer John Roskelley, became the youngest American to climb Everest.
He’s since gone on to climb new routs in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies and Patagonia. Some of his most notable accomplishments include the new 1,128-metre Hypa Zypa Coloir on the east face of the Citadel in Alaska’s Kichatna Mountains.
In 2015, Coldiron established another big couloir on A Peak with a first ascent with Ben Erdmann and Jonah Job of Unprotected Four-Play AI4+ M6R.