Classic Squamish Route Safe to Climb Again

The Apron on The Chief is one of the most popular rock climbing areas in Squamish, but last year one of its most classic routes started to fall apart.

Banana Peel, an eight-pitch 5.7, had a big flake begin to break away from near its finish. Not only that, but on top of the big flake was a large boulder. If one or both of the pieces had fallen, it could have had dire consequences. The route was first climbed in 1965.

Someone installed rebar to prevent the broken rocks from falling hundreds of metres to the pitches, forest and trails below. Shortly after the rebar was installed, local historian and climber Anders Ourom, said “The two pins beside the flake should discourage it from falling (with the block following right behind), but it may simply shatter, and then who knows? The flake is under tension and compression, and the block sitting on it weighs a lot.”

It’s unknown how the flake and boulder were removed, as it’s likely that it was done at night when the area below the climb was free of people. Karina Benavides posted a photo on the Squamish Facebook page showing what the area looks like now.