Connor Herson Bat-Hangs on 5.14c Trad
We talk with Herson about his second ascent of Ethan Pringle's Blackbeard's Tears 5.14c in California
In late August 2023, American climber Connor Herson made the second ascent of Blackbeard’s Tears 5.14c, one of the most difficult crack climbs in the world. Located at the picturesque Promontory Wall in Northern California, the line was opened by Ethan Pringle back in 2016. The 110-foot route works its way up a thin, steep sandstone crack overlooking the Pacific ocean. The climb begins with an 80-foot 5.13. A vicious boulder problem is then encountered, followed by 5.12 climbing to the final set of chains.
Herson sent Blackbeard’s Tears after returning to California from a very sendy visit to Squamish. The 20-year-old had perhaps the most successful trip anyone has ever had to the British Columbia town. Over a period of a few short weeks, he sent the legendary Cobra Crack 5.14b, Didier Berthod’s new Crack of Destiny 5.14, Jesse Huey’s Stélmexw 5.13+, and Hazel Findlay’s spicy stem-corner testpiece, Tainted Love 5.13+. After arriving back in California and sending Blackbeard’s Tears, he made the first free ascent of Hairline, a 13-pitch 5.13+ up Mount Whitney, and repeated Beth Rodden’s Meltdown 5.14c in Yosemite.
A short film of Herson’s ascent of Blackbeard’s Tears was recently released, which is linked below. To learn more about his time on Blackbeard’s Tears we spoke with Herson. Scroll down to read our short interview.
How many days did you spend on Blackbeard’s Tears? The route took me seven sessions across two trips. I had four sessions on my way home from Squamish, then I returned for a three-day weekend a week later and finished it off. It might have been quicker, but I really struggled with skin issues (like Carlo [Traversi]!).
The crux after the second anchor looks nails. What in particular makes it difficult? Any idea of the V-grade? The crux is very sharp. Every hold is pretty decent but [each one is] facing the wrong way. I think V10ish? Ethan [Pringle] and Carlo [Traversi] were using a glued crimp out left, but I stopped using it after I destroyed my right pinky skin on the finger lock above the roof. That’s why my earlier attempt shown in the video has a different sequence than the send.
How did you figure out the bat-hang foot-jam rest? Is that beta someone else had tried or did you find it yourself? I don’t remember how I found the bat-hang – I think it was my first go on the route! It was actually essential for me to rest there before the boulder, and it was a better rest than not inverting.
The gear looks tiny through the crux. How is the gear on the route? The gear on the route is quite safe. It’s thin through the crux but it’s a clean fall into space so it really doesn’t matter if gear pulls.
You worked the route with Nat Bailey and Carlo Taversi. It sounds like you and Carlo both picked up some nasty cuts from the route. Is the rock sharp or do the jams just really bite? The climb is very, very sharp! The sandstone digs into the skin and it’s a bit rough. In particular, the finger lock just past the roof is extremely sharp. That’s where Carlo got his pinky filleted.
How would you compare Blackbeard’s Tears to the other five-star cracks you climbed in 2023 (e.g. Meltdown, Crack of Destiny, Cobra)? It’s such a different style from the other granite climbs I’ve done this year! Kind of like Cobra, it’s very sporty and not quite as technical as other granite climbs I’ve done this year. In terms of difficulty, it might be a tad closer to upper end 5.14b than 5.14c, as it felt way easier than Meltdown. But maybe Meltdown is just hard!
