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Estado Critico 5.14d Climbed for 35th Time

Lucas Marques has sent Estado Critico 5.14d in Siurana, Spain. According to 8a.nu, it’s the 35th recorded ascent of the steep line. The route became popular after Alex Mego onsighted it at 19 years old in 2013.

Marques wrote on Instagram after his send, “I naturally got inspired by these lines since the first time I was here in 2008. Steep, colorful walls and strong nature. I got passionate by the magic of this place and I did everything to come back, again and again.

“It was not always easy as a Brazilian, but sometimes we need to chase our dreams. Estado Critico was a motivation to become a better climber. I accepted the challenge and yesterday I could do it. Such a great mental fight! About the grade who am i to downgrade the first 9a onsight. I just celebrate it! Yesterday was a magic moment in my life.”

A post shared by lucas (@lucasbmarques_) on

Estado Critico is next to the famous La Rambla 5.15a at the El Pati sector of Siurana and was first climbed by Spanish powerhouse Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2004.

While many climbers have suggested a downgrade to 5.14c, Megos said after his onsight, “I cannot and do not want to say anything about the grade. During my on-sight everything ran perfectly and nevertheless it was really difficult. I don’t feel I can say anything about the grade.”

Canadian Sonnie Trotter sent Estado Critico in 2015 and said, “The route took me six days of work, maybe seven. The first day I remember touching all the holds and being pretty discouraged, they didn’t seem good enough for me to actually use them all. But then we started trying it from the ground a couple of days later and I got more and more stoked on it.”

Watch Trotter on Estado Critico below.

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