In the film No Turning Back, we get to see what makes Austrian alpinist Hansjorg Auer tick.
As a young boy growing up in Austria, beneath the jagged pinnacles of the Dolomites, Auer and his brother would guide sheep from the family farm into the mountains every summer and the thrill which accompanied those special moments of independence still follows him on his mountain adventures today.
Freed my old multipitch project in Ötztal a few days ago calling it 'June Afternoon'. This five pitches long sportclimb (8b/+, 5a, 7c, 7a, 8a) located on the right side of the Nösslachwand offers some great climbing with an incredible last pitch. Thanks to everyone who was up there with me this and over the last years, when I was trying the line occasionally. Also high five to my longtime buddy Thomi. Together we've explored this piece of rock nine years ago during our crazy time on and off the walls. #climbing #oetztal #newroute @thenorthface @oetztal.official @lasportivagram @team_edelrid @totemcams @garmin @smithoptics Photo: @eliasholzknecht
Having first sampled climbing on an indoor wall at the age of 12, he was soon fascinated by the heroes of mountaineering. Every Christmas he would ask for new books by great climbers such as Reinhold Messner, Hans Kammerlander and Hermann Buhl.
His free solo ascent of The Fish (otherwise known as “Il Pesce” or “Weg durch den Fisch”) in 2007 – a stunning 37-pitch slab on the south face of the Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites – is his most iconic achievement.
After conquering big walls in Siberia and on Baffin Island in recent years, today his focus is on high walls and high mountains.
Highlights of Auer
– Free Solo of Tempi Moderni (6c/ 800 m), Fish (7b+/ 850 m), Locker vom Hocker (7a/ 350 m) and Bayrischer Traum (7a/ 400 m) and Mephisto (6c+/400m)
– First Free Ascent of L’ultimo dei Paracadutisti (8b+/ 650 m) on Marmolada Southwestface
– First Ascent of Bruderliebe (8b/800m) on Marmolada Southface
– First Ascent of Kunyang Chhish East (7400 m) via the 2700m high southwest face
– First Ascent of the south face on Nilgiri South (6839 m) – (RIP my good friend Gerry)
– Sportclimbing up to 8c+ and first ascents up to 8c
– Alpine rock climbs up to 8c