Over the past week, we’ve reported on many stories, but unlike most weeks, this one has been one filled with history-making climbs. From bouldering to trad and sport climbing, below are five highlights.

Nina Williams

Nina Williams has long been one of the world’s top boulderers and her recent climb of a massive highball only helps to solidify that position. Williams’ most recent jaw-dropping send was of Too Big to Flail, a V9 highball that many have said is more like a 5.13d free solo. She’s the seventh climber and first woman to top the dangerous boulder after Honnold (2012), Lonnie Kauk (2013), Steven Roth (2014), Ethan Pringle (2014), Fabian Buhl (2017) and Nick Muehlhausen (2018).

In 2017, Williams made the first female ascent of the Ambrosia in the Buttermilks, a V11 highball that tops out nearly 20 metres off the ground. Williams has also climbed Evilution Direct V11 and Footprints V9 to complete the Grandpa Peabody Trifecta.

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This climb is a near-vertical slab that demands technical style over strength. Many of the feet are hard to believe until you’ve pressed, weighted, and finally stood on them in rebellion against your brain saying, “There’s no way that chip of rock will hold you.” Over time, movement begins to flow as the body learns to trust itself and tune out the mental skepticism. . Too Big to Flail 💛🖤 📸@simoore . #payahuunadü

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Margo Hayes

Margo Hayes became the first woman to climb a 5.15a with her send of La Rambla in 2017. She then went on to repeat Biographie/Realization 5.15a as the first woman to tick the classic Chris Sharma line.

Hayes just climbed her third 5.15a with a send of Papichulo in Spain. She was fresh off winning bronze at the USA Climbing Bouldering Nationals, a medal that got her a place on the national team.

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I am fortunate to be in Oliana during the spring equinox and full moon, especially with a human so dear to my heart. 🌝 I am grateful to be back on Spanish lime stone, which suits my style in such a comfortable and familiar way. I feel so small against the magnitude of rock. It has been a wonderful experience climbing one of Oliana’s most beguiling routes, Papichulo 9a+. Thank you @alexandermegos for your unwavering support and for catching every fall. Much gratitude @chris_sharma for yet another gem💎 @jan_novak_photography 🙏🏾 📸 @thenorthface @petzl_official @lasportivana @frictionlabs @stancesocks

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Tribe is trad 5.15?

Jacopo Larcher sent a six-year project with his first free ascent of Tribe in Italy. Larcher, who’s repeated lines such as The Path 5.14aR, La Rambla 5.15a and Rhapsody 5.14cR, said that Tribe is the most difficult climb he’s ever sent, but won’t grade it.

Larcher has told planetmountain.com that, “The first part is fairly dangerous, with some random moves and dubious pro, in the region of 7a+ where you’re better off not taking a fall. Higher up there are two crux sections, both with bomber gear though. On the first roof you risk falling badly and on a couple of occasions I fell with the rope behind my leg and slammed into the rock and hurt my wrists.

“On the second roof the fall is longer but more straightforward. That’s why I’d define Tribe as technically difficult but fairly safe. Having said that, if you fall while going for the ledge at the end and if the pro doesn’t hold, then you risk taking a huge whipper. Luckily I didn’t try that though.”

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“Tribe” (E none) ~ I’m thinking since two days what I should write about this journey. After so much effort, I was sure to have too many words to describe it, but the reality is that I can’t find any. I’m simply happy, very happy. I'm thankful for what I’ve learned from it, for the the support of my friends, Babsi and the community… and yes, I’m thankful to myself, because I believed in this dream and I didn’t give up, even if it would have been easier. ~ I brushed this line 6 years ago, on my first trip to Cadarese, when I got into trad climbing. At the beginning it felt completely impossible, but I was obsessed by the beauty of the line and I kept on trying it hoping to find a solution to climb it. It had witnessed my evolution as a trad climber, as well as a lot of up and downs in my life. I kept on trying it, often alone, even if I’d never done the last two moves until a couple of weeks ago; I believed it was possible and at the end the perseverance paid off. It taught me that we always have to believe in our dreams, no matter what, even if someone tells you’re crazy and if it’s not always easy. ~ Now the big question is the grade. Everybody is asking me about it and it seems to be the most important thing about the climb, but for me it is not. I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten…but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number. ~ 🙏🏻 to my “Tribe” for sharing with me this process and to the climbing community for all the messages and support. It wouldn’t have been the same without you! ~ Peter, this one is for you 🙏🏻 ~ @thenorthface @lasportivagram @blackdiamond @frictionlabs @katadyn_group ~ 📸 @paolosartophoto

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Yuji Hirayama

Yuji Hirayama is undoubtedly one of the world’s most accomplished climbers, with speed records of The Nose, a repeat of Cobra Crack 5.14 trad and the first onsight of 5.14.

Nevertheless, the 50-year-old gym owner hasn’t slowed down and recently made the first ascent of a new 5.14c in Japan called Time Machine.

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I just want to announce the name of my new route. The name is “Time Machine 8c+,5.14c There are many of my old routes from 1987 and 1988 here in Gozeniwa and Those routes give to me lots of inspirations just being here and just climbing here. And those routes are express a lot of messages from 80s and even I feel like it’s from young Yuji. And today with my new route “Time Machine” will express a lot what we are doing today and Time Machine will bring you to my generation forever. 1 pic, view from the others side of Time Machine. 2 movie, 2017 June One of my beginning of linking attempt. 3 pic, trying hard but always dealing with my knee. 4 movie, moment of red point after 22 months of effort. さて先日登ったプロジェクトの名前を決めました。 名前はTime Machine, 8c+ 高校生の頃通った御前岩で再び本格的に登り始めたのは2015年の暮頃からでした。30年近い月日が経っていましたが、目の前のボルトやスリングは当時のまま、懐かしいと同時に当時の開拓を思い出し十代の自分や当時の景色を来る度に感じることができました。そこには未成熟なクライミング界ではありましたが、今の自分にはない熱い情熱が存在し、一本一本のルートから放たれるエネルギーがリボルト作業を通してメッセージのように伝わってきました。ラインどり、ボルト位置や間隔、全てがアグレッシブで必要最小限で自然との妥協点を見つけ出しているようでした。手打ちで打ったと言うことや高校生でお金がなかった、とかいろいろあるとしても、僕らのクライミングに対する理想の高さが随所に垣間見れたのは事実です。そんな3年半程の間、そのように過去の自分に出会ったり仲間を思い出し、昔の僕らから沢山のメッセージを頂いているようでした。そんなルート達は2017年暮に御前岩が開放されてから沢山の皆んなにも感じて頂けるようになりました。そしてぜひ、この1年10ヶ月の想いや自分からのメッセージをこのTime Machineを通して感じて頂ければなと思います。 1.キャスリウォールから 2.2017年6月 3.膝との付き合いをしながら核心練習 4.2019年3月22日完成 #new50’s #gozeniwa @thenorthfacejp @blackdiamond @beal.official @climbskinspain @climbparkbasecamp @boulderpark_basecamp @basecamptokyo @thenorthfacecup @basecamp.import

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Valhalla 5.15a, 14 pitches

Edu Marin reported that he made the first free ascent of his entire 14-pitch Valhalla 5.15a in the Getu, China. The massive route has a 300-metre roof section with a crux pitch called Odyn’s Eye that goes at 5.15a.

This might be the world’s most difficult multi-pitch in terms of grading. Of course, the 30-pitch Dawn Wall has 5.14b trad pitches and 5.14d sport, so comparing what climb might be the hardest is no easy task. They’re two completely different styles. Watch a clip from Valhalla below.

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¡HOY HEMOS ALCANZADO EL VALHALLA, el techo mas grande del mundo! ⠀ Por fin, después de meses y meses de lucha, de esfuerzo y de mil adversidades, lo hemos logrado. Hemos cumplido un sueño que empezó hace 2 años. ⠀ Las 4 de la mañana: sol, viento y la piedra seca, sin pretensiones ni presión, iba a entrenar. ⠀ Pero hoy era el día, ¡Sabía que hoy no iba a fallar! Valhalla liberado en 9 horas! ⠀ Conquistar el Valhalla no va a ser un destino final! Exhausto, agotado, pero realmente feliz: frustraciones, llantos, alegrías, fracasos, viajes, presiones, dificultades… Pero lo HEMOS logrado. ⠀ Gracias padre por tanto, por estar aquí durante 6 meses. Siempre positivo, siempre aquí, siempre conmigo. ⠀ Gracias hermanito por creer en mí, sin tí nada de esto seria posible! ⠀ Gracias a toda la comunidad y en especial a los que habéis venido hoy a darme apoyo! ⠀ Qué Rico Mambo, gracias por creer en esta locura! ⠀ Ahora sí, puedo decir… Volvemos a casa! ⠀ Filmado y editado por kareldownsbrough.com Concepto: @wearequericomambo ⠀ ⠀ —————— ⠀ TODAY, WE HAVE CLIMBED VALHALLA! ⠀ We climbed the largest roof in the world! ⠀ At last, after many, many months of struggling, effort and thousands of adversities, we’ve done it. We’ve fulfilled a dream that started two years ago. ⠀ 4am with an special feeling: sunshine, wind, no expectations nor pressure, just training. ⠀ But today was the day. I knew I couldn’t fail! So I’ve climbed the whole line in just 9 hours. ⠀ Reaching Valhalla it won’t be an end! Exhausted right now, but happy: frustrations, cryings, joy, fails, travels, pressure, difficulties… But WE did it today! ⠀ Thank you dad for being here during six months. Always positive, always here, always with me. ⠀ Thank you brother for believing on me, this couldn’t have been possible without you! ⠀ Qué Rico Mambo, Thank you to believe in this madness! ⠀ Now I could say… We’re coming back home! ⠀ Filmed & edited by kareldownsbrough.com Concept: @wearequericomambo ⠀ ⠀ Thanks to: ⠀ @petzl_official @borealoutdoor @climbatcenters @entreprisesclimbing @goproes @kuikmeal @ttrinternational

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