Five Canadian Alpine Ridges to Climb in 2025

Canada is home to some of the world’s most classic alpine ridges. Some are long, complicated and dangerous, while others are moderate, short and safer. For the purpose of this list, we’re looking at ridges that can be climbed in a day from your car or camp, offer good belays and a straightforward descent. All of the following routes require traditional gear, layers for cold and wet weather and experience in the backcountry and route finding.

Sir Donald’s Northwest Ridge: This is a classic long ridge near Roger’s Pass in B.C. that appeared in Allen Steck and Steve Roper’s Fifty Classic Climbs in North America. It’s found in Glacier National Park above the Trans-Canada Highway between Golden and Revelstoke. The ridge is sustained at alpine 5.4 with ledges for belays. It can be climbed in a day car-to-car, but most climbers bivy along the way. Mountain Project has some good beta, check it out here.

Mount Temple’s East Ridge: This big ridge was first climbed in 1931, and is one of Canada’s most sought-after alpine lines. It begins close to the road near Moraine Lake and ends on the highest summit in the area. Along the way, you climb low-angle terrain, knife-edge ridges and steep rock faces up to 5.7. The route finding through the black towers onto the icy glacier summit ridge can be time consuming. It requires a full alpine kit and confident party. Good beta at Mountain Project here, with the exception that you now need to take a shuttle or ride a bike to the base, as the road is closed.

Edith Cavell’s East Ridge: Edith Cavell stands is a famous peak in Jasper National Park west of Edmonton. The quartzite East Ridge is mostly fourth and fifth class with some 5.3 sections on solid slabs. It’s a long route, but you can move relatively quick through the lower sections. It was first climbed in 1924 by the legend Conrad Kain. While the route can be snow and ice free for much of the summer, most climbers bring crampons and climb in boots as there can be pockets of slippery terrain. Some good information can be found on Summit Post here.

Pigeon Spire’s West Ridge: This is one of the best 5.4 routes in North America. Found in the Bugaboos, the route is mostly fourth-class up and over two false summits before reaching the true one. The late Guy Edwards once soloed it naked up and down in 18 minutes. The route has an exposed au chavel ridge traverse, steep ramps, splitter crack, chimneys and a final 5.4 handrail to the summit. Summit Post has some good information here.

Alpha’s East Ridge: Found in the Tantalus Range, this is one of the classic ridges on the west coast. There’s glacier travel and lots of fifth-class climbing to be had. It requires a river crossing, a long hike and a big return trip, but it has been climbed Squamish to Squamish. It has three short 5.8 pitches up the steepest section, the first up a corner that leads to an overhang. From there, up good rock to the summit.