Hand in the Honey Pot is 11-Pitch 5.11 on EEOR in Rockies
Hand in the Honey Pot is 500-metre 5.11b/c that was first climbed by Brett Lawrence and Jeff Relph in July 2007. Established as a modern mixed route that requires a rack of gear, but has bolts where you need there, the route should be on all 5.11 multi-pitch climber’s lists. The rock on the difficult climbing excellent and on the easier pitches, like all Rockies’ routes, there is some loose stone. Most of the belays have big ledges and they are all rigged for rappels to pitch eight. Above that are gear and tree anchors.
The route starts up a 5.7 pitch on good rock and after 45 metres ends at a ledge. From there, you climb up a fun pillar and corner to a splitter 5.9 finger crack. After a steep 5.10 corner and 5.6 pitch, you arrive at an amazing 40-metre 5.10+. The sixth pitch is the 5.11b/c crux and is fully bolted. It was established so you could pull on the bolt to pass the crux so the route would be 5.10+ A0. After that, you lcimb a 5.7, 5.9, 5.5 and final 5.10 crack to the top. For a full route description and topo visit TABVAR here.
Jay Houlden approaching the crux pitch (11b/c) on 'Hand in the Honey Pot' on the East End of Mt Rundle. Rain clouds flirted with us all day but luckily we stayed dry. On the first pitch just after clipping a bolt I ripped off a loose hold, took a whipper and grabbed the rope…resulting in nasty rope burn, creating three holes in my hands and fingers. Ouch. I've climbed plenty of loose rock in the rockies, first time ever ripping off a hand hold that resulted in a fall.
EEOR has a number of long classic routes that are up to 600 metres. The wall is approached in less than 30 minutes from the parking and the walk-off descent is strait forward. For a topo from Bow Valley Rock by Chris Perry from the late 1990s, visit here.