Ice Climbing Guide Talks Spindrift and What it Means
Ian Welsted talks about what spindrift might mean and that you should always have a plan B
Many ice climbs form in avalanche areas, which is why over the past few years there’s been a push to encourage ice climbers to carry avalanche safety gear. And while avalanche forecasts aid in understanding daily conditions in the mountains, there are several things that ice climbers should be paying attention to when approaching their objective. One of those things is spindrift.
“This season, with a very low snow pack, the Canadian Rockies have had good stable avalanche conditions in general, allowing visitors and locals alike to challenge themselves on some of the area’s famous classics,” said ACMG alpine climbing guide Ian Welsted. “Recently, with a few storms rolling in, people have had to have a good plan B as on a given day conditions may not allow climbers to safely go for the trophy route originally planned . Spindrift, often caused by high winds and recent or current snow, is just one step before an avalanche, with even a heavy enough spindrift being enough to cause an ice climber to fall.”
Welsted is one of only a few Canadians to receive a Piolet d’Or and he spends much of his time in avalanche terrain. “A few years ago Slipstream was getting climbed and reported on the internet forums every day,” he said. “The day we finally decided to go there was visible blowing snow in the air but we stuck with our plan. Simuclimbing about 200m, spindrift started coming down the route. We re-united at a belay and decided to bail, and watched a larger avalanche come down the climb about half an hour after turning around.”
Welsted notes that legendary ice and alpine climber Barry Blanchard says that spindrift is like god telling you something. “It is the mountains telling you you are one step away from an avalanche,” said Welsted. “Have a good plan B up your sleeve for when those trophy routes you are aiming for just aren’t in the cards. They aren’t going anywhere and will be there when conditions are safer.” To learn more from Welsted to book a day of climbing with him visit here and follow him below.
Epic Spindrift
Veteran alpinist Adam Bielecki, who’s made the first winter ascent of several of the world’s highest mountains, gets hit by a burst of spindrift in the Tatras.
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