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Ice Climbing Legend Guy Lacelle’s Top 135 Ice Climbs

With hundreds of first ascents and bold soloes, Lacelle was known as one of the world's leading ice climbers before his death in 2009

Guy Lacelle was one of the world’s top ice climbers, with numerous groundbreaking first ascents and repeats in the Canadian Rockies, Quebec, the U.S. and Europe. Lacelle was also a talented competition climber, having won the Ice Competition in Ouray in 2000 and 2001, as well as the Festiglace Competition in Quebec in 2004.

His accomplishments earned him international recognition, including the Bill March Summit of Excellence Award in 1999. A frequent contributor to Gripped, Lacelle’s articles and reports embodied his passion for climbing.

MEC cover 1996: Guy Lacelle’s First Ascent of Le Grand Delire Photo Joe Josephson

Born in Hawkesbury, Ontario, Lacelle started climbing while studying at the University of Ottawa in the 1970s. He later became a winter courses instructor for Outward Bound in Ontario and a guide for the Yamnuska Mountain School in Canmore, Alberta.

In 1997, he made history when he soloed the three WI6 ice routes on the Trophy Wall: Terminator, Replicant and Sea of Vapors – read about it here.

Lacelle was one of the finest ice climbers ever. “You don’t loose people like Guy, other than physically. I’m bummed, I’m sad, he is like a little brother to me, I wanna go play. But, I did’t loose him, he is there constantly,” said Lacelle’s friend David Burger. And Marge Lachecki, Lacelle’s wife, said, “Even though he was a climber, that’s not the stories people are telling. They are telling the human stories about the lovely human being he was, and that just says it all to me.”

Guy Lacelle favourite climbs. Canada
Guy Lacelle soloing Fearful Symmetry WI6 in December 2006. Photo by Andrew Querner

Dec. 10, 2009, Guy Lacelle died at the Bozeman Ice Fest in Montana. “A small pocket of snow pulled out and caught him. It hit him and took him off the cliff, down the ice,” said Doug Chabot, director of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center.

A few years before his death, Lacelle shared his top 135 ice climbs from around the world in a Gripped article. We’ve included that list  (which is in no particular order) below for those looking to climb some of Lacelle’s favourite winter routes.

Lacelle’s Top 135

Terminator – Cdn Rockies
La Pomme D’Or – Quebec
Weeping Pillar – Cdn Rockies
La Dame Du Lac – France
You Have To Pooh Sometimes – Cdn Rockies
Hydnefossen – Norway
Polar CircusCdn – Rockies
Nemesis – Cdn Rockies
Mardalsfossen – Norway
Tagbekken – Norway
Riptide (to top) – Cdn Rockies
La Vraie Nature De Bernadette – Cdn Rockies
Predateur – France
French Maid – Cdn Rockies
Thorfossen – Norway
La Celle Qui Reste – France
Dontefossen – Norway
Sky Pilot Cdn – Rockies
Capteur De Reve – Quebec
French Reality – Cdn Rockies
Sea of Vapours – Cdn Rockies
Gorigrov – Norway
Tre Solstre – Norway
Called On Accounts Of The Rain – Vermont
Curtain Call – Cdn Rockies
Sorcerer – Cdn Rockies
Les Miserables – Cdn Rockies
Shooting Star – Cdn Rockies
Ames Ice Hose – Colorado
Bourgeau Left – Cdn Rockies
Whoa Whoa Capitaine – Cdn Rockies
Kitty Hawk – Cdn Rockies
Lipton – Norway
Suffer Machine – Cdn Rockies
Langaani – Norway
Repentance Super – Italy
Rainbow Serpent – Cdn Rockies
Tsuri Gane – Alaska
Fang – Colorado
Le Grande Delire – Quebec
Bird Brain Boulevard – Colorado
Hydrophobia – Cdn Rockies
Takakkaw Falls – Cdn Rockies
Wild Thing – Colorado
Troubled Dreams – Cdn Rockies
Bridalveil Falls – Colorado
Whiteman Falls – Cdn Rockies
Canneloni Du Cure – Quebec
Ice Soup – China
Broken Hearts – Cody
Ovisight – Cody
Oh Le Tabernac – Cdn Rockies
Last Gentleman – Vermont
Promenade – Vermont
Thilid – Iceland
Aerial Boundaries – Cdn Rockies
Aussi Beau QueC’en A L’Aire – Cdn Rockies
Positive Thinking – New York
Dragon Breath – China
Jason vs. Freddy Kruger – China
Un Trou Dans Les Nuages – Quebec
High On Boulder – Cody
I Lynx – France
Le Grand Aigle De Jonaz – Norway
Lacy Gibbot – Cdn Rockies
Seven Pillars Of Wisdom – Cdn Rockies
Pilsner Pillar – Cdn Rockies
Sacrebleau – Cdn Rockies
Un Autre Monde – France
Murchison Falls – Cdn Rockies
Settunfuss – Norway
Kjorlifossen – Norway
L’Eppee De Jade – Quebec
Grotennufossen – Norway
Three Pieces of Cake – China
La Meduse – Quebec
Par Defaut – Norway
Au Dela Des Ombres – France
Hysterie Collective – Quebec
Nuit Blanche – France
Tequila Stuntman – France
Thierry La Main Froide – Norway
Aurora – Vermont
Expert’s Choice – Cdn Rockies
Juvsoyla – Norway
Loin De Chez Moi – China
Louise Falls – Cdn Rockies
Synphonie D’Automne – France
Iron Curtain – Cdn Rockies
Mindbender – Vermont
Le Pilier De Crystal – Quebec
Carlsberg Column – Cdn Rockies
Frappe Moe Pas – Quebec
Crystal Vision – Alaska
Super Bock – Cdn Rockies
Wicked Wanda – Cdn Rockies
La Verge Du Demon – France
Glenwood Falls – Colorado
Professor Falls – Cdn Rockies
Black Dike – New Hampshire
Corneille – Quebec
Cascade – Cdn Rockies
La Jaune – Norway
Jokulkula – Norway
Cilley Barber – Maine
Big Brother – Alaska
Cracked Canyon – Colorado
Twisted Sister – Alaska
Love’s Way – Alaska
Whore House Hose – Colorado
Cold Choice – Cdn Rockies
Haugfossen – Norway
Les Piliers Du Temple – Quebec
Keystone Greensteps – Alaska
Who’s Who In Outerspace – Vermont
Bridalveil Falls – Alaska
Recolte De Reve – Quebec
La Goute – Cdn Rockies
Ice Nine – Cdn Rockies
Secret Journey – Alaska
Giant Step – Colorado
Le Lotus Bleu – Cdn Rockies
A Bridge Too Far – Cdn Rockies
Benediction De Ledger – France
Les Jumelles – Quebec
China Shop – Vermont
Je Voudrais Voir Ma Mere – Quebec
Les Grande Galais – Quebec
Moonlight – Cdn Rockies
Gravity’s Rainbow – Colorado
Joy After Pain – Cody
Arian P’tit Grimlin – Cdn Rockies
Topaze – Quebec
Orion Falls – Cdn Rockies
Triolet – Quebec