German climber Jan Hojer recently repeated Quoi de Neuf V15, one of the longest roof problems at Fontainebleau.
The first ascent was by Rémy Bergasse back in 2008 and it was repeated by Sebastien Bouin and Alban Levier in 2015.
Some of Hojer’s other V15 climbs include From Dirt Grows the Flowers in Chironico, The Story of Two Worlds in Cresciano, Le Marathon de Boissy in Fontainebleau (first ascent), Trip Hop in Fontainebleau and The Big Island in Fontainebleau.
Hojer, 25, has also won one World Cup and two European Championships in Bouldering. In May, 2010, he climbed Action Directe 5.14d, which is still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world for the grade.
After his send of Quoi de Neuf, he said, ““Two years ago I tried it for the first time together with James Webb. We both flashed the second part of the 30-move line, which checks in at 8A+/8B by itself and did the first 7C+ish part the same session. But we couldn’t link it that day due to a lack of time and endurance.
“I had high hopes, coming off a couple months of lead training this time. It took me a while to get all the moves wired again but after some time the muscle memory kicked in. I took a long rest, going through the moves over and over again in my head before my first try from the start.
“I got through the first part efficiently and felt much better compared to my first session. I tried to stay as calm as possible and somehow kept it together throughout the second part.”
Only two days after making this send, he won the German Lead Championships. Watch below.