Joe Skopec talks about his new Ontario 5.14 and projects
Road to Courage at Calabogie is the newest 5.14 in southern Ontario, and Skopec has another difficult one in the works
Joe Skopec is one of Ontario’s top climbers, with ticks of most of the province’s hardest classic sport routes. He’s also known for putting down old projects and establishing what are now some of the most difficult climbs east of the Rockies.
This week, he made the second ascent of Sponge 5.13d at Metcalfe, a Sonnie Trotter route from over 20 years ago. His ascent means that he’s climbed every route at the crag. After his climb, he said, “Super stoked to make a quick ascent and second ascent of this route. This route shut me down years ago, and I came back for revenge. I just need my dad shorting me, wet holds, and horrible temps to get the job done haha! Metcalfe is finally ticked off, and I only have one hard climb in Beaver Valley left.”
That impressive repeat came a few days after his first ascent of Road to Courage 5.14 at Calabogie in eastern Ontario, a Crown Land crag. Skopec also made the FA of Bat’leth 5.13d at Calabogie in September, a route bolted by Jonathan Dean Urness.
“The new 5.14 there took me four or five tries,” Skopec told us. “It’s basically a 5.11 into a V10 boulder problem with a V4 finish to the anchors. But the Boulder problem is amazing. Huge moves off horrible crimps to a slopey Squamish lip, with even a Squamish arête top out. A very nice line.”
Skopec is also working on a very difficult project at Lion’s Head. “The route breaks down from 5.13d into a rest, then a V12 Boulder, some 5.12 climbing then another rest,” Skopec said. “Then finish off on a super powerful and steep 5.13+ and a full dyno to the finish jug.”
When asked how many 5.14s there are in Ontario, he said, “If you count the Ottawa region and GTA (I don’t know much about any other parts in Ontario, it’s just so big), then a total of 16, and I’ve done 13 of them. After I’m done this mega project, I would like to finish off 16 of 16. But baby steps for now.”
Skopec added that there might be room for one or two more hard routes at Calabogie, but there’s plenty more potential at Lion’s Head.
Be sure to follow Skopec on Instagram for more updates from the cliffs in southern Ontario.
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