Home > Profiles

Limestone project chopped and solved at 5.14c (but pitons added on rappel)

In 1996, Harald Bielmeier bolted a 40-metre crack which ended in five metres of blank wall. Since then, the final crux remained a project. Roland Hemetzberger spent two years working on the route. He realized it could be climbed in a “cleaner” style.

After removing the bolts, Hemetzberger climbed the route using natural protection at a grade of 5.14c.

However, the gear was added on rappel which might contradict the cleaner style.

Read more about Hemetzberger on his blog here.

Roland Hemetzberger klettert Zarathustra  Photo screen caption
Roland Hemetzberger klettert Zarathustra Photo screen caption

 

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

The Best Climbing Gear According to Our Editors – April

Every month we're bringing you our favourite gear so you can complete your climbing kit with the latest and best stuff out there