Squamish has a lot of world class climbing, from bouldering and big wall to trad and sport, so sifting through the routes to find a project at a threshold grade isn’t always easy.
While not all climbers are looking for a 5.14a project, for those who are might want to check out Nothing in Moderation at Murrin Park. Found on Quercus Cliff next to Vorpal Sword, this technical route has only a few ascents to date.
First climbed by Sonnie Trotter at 5.13+, it was repeated by Steve Townsend after a hold broke. Guidebook author Marc Bourdon, who used La Sportiva Katana laces, made the third ascent and suggested 5.14a. Stu Smith made the fourth ascent and confirmed the 5.14a grade.
The climb is mid-5.11 to the first crux, a very bouldery lunge move off a tiny cube-shaped hold, but the redpoint crux is above and consists of a series of big reaches to gnarly crystal edges using extremely poor footholds.
The near-vertical face starts with thin 5.11+ which leads to a section of sustained tricky footwork that leads to a crux lunge to a small cube-shaped feature. It requires big reaches between small crystal edges with not-great foot holds. Watch Smith send it below.
Squamish’s 5.14s can be found in Cheakamus Canyon, Paradise Valley, Cacodemon Boulders, around The Chief and in Murrin Park. Other Squamish 5.14s by Trotter include Cobra Crack 5.14 trad, The Prow Wall 5.14a, Sugar Daddy 5.14bR trad, Battle of Evermore 5.14a/b and Superman 5.14c.
If you’re looking for an easy-access well-bolted beta-intensive project at 5.14a then consider Nothing in Moderation.