Martina Demmel Onsights 5.14a, Sends 5.14c in a Day
She's logged over 500 sport climb onsights in the past year
German crusher Martina Demmel, 19, onsighted Los Humildes pa casa 5.14a in Oliana, Spain, a few hours before she redpointed Joe Blau 5.14c on her third go.
Dani Andrada established the 50-metre Los Humildes pa casa, which climbs next to the famous Mind Control 5.14c, in 2004l and Joe Blau is a famous Joe Kinder line. Both routes see a lot of action and the former has over 40 recorded sends on the climber’s site 8a.nu.
“I managed to regulate the pump quite well with constantly breathing until the last few meters where you’re arriving at the end of the tufa,” Demmel said about her onsight. “No chalk guiding the way made it extra exciting to get through the last three-metre slab before clipping the chains: such a big relief that it luckily worked out on this outstanding five-star line.”
Demmel only started climbed in 2017, and she focuses on onsight sends without training at a gym. Like many climbers, she keeps track of her sends on 8a.nu, where she’s logged over 850 ticks in the past year with 70 per cent of them being onsights.