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New Moderate Mixed in Rockies Protection Valley

Roommate Romance M5 WI4 was established by four local leading climbing

Protection Valley is tucked behind the northwestern edge of Castle Mountain west of Banff. The approach can take up to three hours, but the climbing is worth the hike.

Earlier this week, Kevin Rohn, Quentin Roberts and Dylan Cunningham made the first ascent Roommate Romance, a 290-metre M5 WI4. Walsh returned and made the second ascent with Jas Fauteux.

“It was an obvious line that immediately grabbed our attention, and despite it not being our intended route, we couldn’t resist,” said Walsh who has a feature on the Storm Creek Headwall in the current issue. “The rock is immaculate dolomite and it’s a great addition to a fine group of climbs at this world class venue.”


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Some days in the hills are definitely more memorable then others! 📷1-2-3 by @jon.walsh

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Protection Valley had a number of routes established in the 1990s up to 250 metres, including Mon Ami WI4+ Arian P’tit Grimlin WI6, Smothered Hope WI5 and Guinevere WI5R M4.

Over the last few years, there’s been a number of new routes added, including, Safe Space M7R WI4, Grab the Cupcakes M6 WI4+, Smothered Hope WI5, Paradis Perdu WI5, The Wicked Witch of the West M6R/X WI6R, Superlight 5.10 WI5+ and Mix Fix M7.